Changing shocks

[bmcgarvey at gmail.com (Brian McGarvey)]

On rear shock removal.
On the GRM car it too 4 hrs for each side to get the rear koni's off the
bolt was rust welded into the metal re-enforced lower bushing. I had to saw
the grade 8 bolt off on both sides of the shock. Brett has a picture of the
great boredem somewhere..

Bigmac

On 3/24/07, Gordy Stedman <ydrogs@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On 3/24/07, Allyn <amalventano1@tds.net> wrote:
> >
> > I've never used a compressor.  I simply undo the center top nut and jack
> > up that corner.  The factory springs are down to about 100#
> > by the time the strut fully expands, so nothing real crazy happens, just
> > make sure you are clear of the wheel well, and keep the
> > wheel on until that corner is up.  Aftermarket springs generally have an
> > inch of play at full extension of the strut.  Hand-guiding
> > factory springs back into position requires an additional person.
>
>
> Yes that will work but compressors are cheap and make the job easier and
> quicker in my opinion.  I have done it every way possible even just
> letting
> the spring shoot the strut nut and bearing across the yard into the fence.
> Gets to be a rush unscrewing the nut towards the end in anticipation of
> something taking off your hand :)  Once Sean brought over the spring
> compressors they have not left my shop and get used every so often when we
> run across stock suspension.  It's like you do not need the injector
> puller
> tool since they most often come out with just a screw driver but shelling
> out the $8 for the tool sure makes the job easier.
>
> --
> Gordy
> MK1 x 4
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