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Changing shocks



See, and my only problematic one was the front eccentric on the 16V. That
thing was rust welded in, I'd snapped its little head off and it just would
not drift out. Took a cutting torch for heat and ice for cold to get it to
go. I think that was when I learned to swear at cars.
Cathy

On 11:35 pm 03/24/07 "Brian McGarvey" <bmcgarvey@gmail.com> wrote:
> On rear shock removal.
> On the GRM car it too 4 hrs for each side to get the rear koni's off
> the bolt was rust welded into the metal re-enforced lower bushing. I
> had to saw the grade 8 bolt off on both sides of the shock. Brett has
> a picture of the great boredem somewhere..
>
> Bigmac
>
> On 3/24/07, Gordy Stedman <ydrogs@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >  On 3/24/07, Allyn <amalventano1@tds.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >  I've never used a compressor.  I simply undo the center top nut
> > >  and jack up that corner.  The factory springs are down to about
> > >  100# by the time the strut fully expands, so nothing real crazy
> > >  happens, just make sure you are clear of the wheel well, and
> > >  keep the wheel on until that corner is up.  Aftermarket springs
> > >  generally have an inch of play at full extension of the strut.
> > >  Hand-guiding factory springs back into position requires an
> > additional person.
> >
> >  Yes that will work but compressors are cheap and make the job
> >  easier and quicker in my opinion.  I have done it every way
> >  possible even just letting
> >  the spring shoot the strut nut and bearing across the yard into
> >  the fence. Gets to be a rush unscrewing the nut towards the end in
> >  anticipation of something taking off your hand :)  Once Sean
> >  brought over the spring compressors they have not left my shop and
> >  get used every so often when we run across stock suspension.  It's
> >  like you do not need the injector puller
> >  tool since they most often come out with just a screw driver but
> >  shelling out the $8 for the tool sure makes the job easier.
> >
> >  --
> >  Gordy
> >  MK1 x 4
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> >
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