seized bushing

[dswalterwi at gmail.com (Don Walter)]

On Ben's behalf:  We can see the bolt backing out and srewing back in.
Because the metal bushing is seized to the bolt it jams up against the
inside of the frame and starts to deflect it.  Now tha we have the sleeve
exposed we are spraying much penetrating oil on it to try and get it to free
up.  My thought was to drill a small indent that with a flat punch we could
try to turn the sleeve by hitting at a tangent to the outside diameter while
holding the bolt, simliar to your chisel idea.

On 10/30/06, Dan Bubb <jdbubb@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> What I'm wondering is if you're able to turn the bolt (multiple turns) and
> it isn't backing out then the threads in the chassis are stripped. And that
> is a major issue.
> Oxy-acetylene is going to be difficult because of the pocket formed by the
> chassis around the bushing sleeve. In the open it wouldn't be difficult to
> cut it off, but in the chassis pocket it's going to be tough because of the
> flame reversing in the pocket. That whole part of the chassis is going to
> get hot as hell very fast.
> I'm thinking dose it in penetrating oil, hold the bolt with a wrench and
> try rotating the sleeve with a chisel.
> Or perhaps a die grinder with a 1" cutoff wheel. Even just cutting a slot
> in it might help the penetrating oil get to the center of the sleeve.
> Dan
>
> From: "Ben Walter" <toofast4you89@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 9:59 PM
> Subject: seized bushing
>
>
> > hello everyone,
> >
> > while getting my car torn apart today to swap the motors my dad and i
> ran
> > into a problem with the driver side K-bar/control arm bushing.  it
> seized
> > itself to the shaft of the bolt and spun with it.  we tried everything,
> > heating, clamping with my vise grips(which became very dangerous) gallon
> of
> > penetrating oil, More heating, etc...  we ended up shredding all the
> rubber
> > off and are left with the metal sleeve on the bushing still seized to
> the
> > bolt.  um any ideas?  next weekend i will try to make arrangements with
> my
> > uncle to bring down his oxy-acl. torch for some real fire.  if that
> doesn't
> > work i guess we will have to cut the bolt before and after the arm.
> > hopefully we wont wreck the control arm.  my dad wants to try drilling a
> > hole in the sleeve and use a good punch to try and brake it free, sound
> like
> > it will work or any suggestions
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
>
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-- 
Don Walter - Waukesha, WI
1986 8V Black Scirocco (Daily Driver)
1984 8V Audi 4000s (RIP 2/14/2006)
1986 2.0L 16V TEC 2 Black Scirocco (see progress at
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/708939)
1986 2L 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (Ben's Car)
1988 1.8 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (sold on 3/29/04)
1984 1.8 8V Pewter Scirocco (sold years ago)
1971 Karman Ghia (sold)
1969 Karman Ghia (sold)
1969 Beetle (sold)