seized bushing

[jdbubb at verizon.net (Dan Bubb)]

What I'm wondering is if you're able to turn the bolt (multiple turns) and it isn't backing out then the threads in the chassis are stripped. And that is a major issue.
Oxy-acetylene is going to be difficult because of the pocket formed by the chassis around the bushing sleeve. In the open it wouldn't be difficult to cut it off, but in the chassis pocket it's going to be tough because of the flame reversing in the pocket. That whole part of the chassis is going to get hot as hell very fast.
I'm thinking dose it in penetrating oil, hold the bolt with a wrench and try rotating the sleeve with a chisel.
Or perhaps a die grinder with a 1" cutoff wheel. Even just cutting a slot in it might help the penetrating oil get to the center of the sleeve.
Dan

From: "Ben Walter" <toofast4you89@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 9:59 PM
Subject: seized bushing


> hello everyone,
> 
> while getting my car torn apart today to swap the motors my dad and i ran
> into a problem with the driver side K-bar/control arm bushing.  it seized
> itself to the shaft of the bolt and spun with it.  we tried everything,
> heating, clamping with my vise grips(which became very dangerous) gallon of
> penetrating oil, More heating, etc...  we ended up shredding all the rubber
> off and are left with the metal sleeve on the bushing still seized to the
> bolt.  um any ideas?  next weekend i will try to make arrangements with my
> uncle to bring down his oxy-acl. torch for some real fire.  if that doesn't
> work i guess we will have to cut the bolt before and after the arm.
> hopefully we wont wreck the control arm.  my dad wants to try drilling a
> hole in the sleeve and use a good punch to try and brake it free, sound like
> it will work or any suggestions
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