[OT] Stereo/sub/amp install advice needed

[pilotlars at yahoo.com (Lars Bruchmann)]

yeah, all electronics run on that smoke... once it
comes out, your electronic thing won't work anymore. 
i've experienced that several times.  :(

--- Chris Bennett <scirocco16vr32@gmail.com> wrote:

> If I may add to that... If your hatch leaks don't
> mount the amp in the
> trunk.  It will make pretty sparks and a funny
> smell.
> 
> I "let the smokeout" of one amp that way.
> 
> Chris
> 
> On 11/17/05, T Berk <bayareaberk@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > --- "Mark F." <mardak@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > On 11/16/05, Scourge <scourge@cogeco.ca> wrote:
> > >
> > > > With this setup I would recommend using that
> amp
> > to
> > > power your
> > > > components(6x9's and doors). And grab another
> amp
> > > to power the sub.
> > >
> > >
> > > So the 400w amp isn't big enough for a single
> 12"
> > > sub?
> >
> > Well, _I_ think he meant it IS, but you want to
> use
> > the four channel amp to power the 6x9s and the
> door
> > speakers. And then use _another_ amp (dedicated,
> > don'tcha know) for the Amp.
> >
> >
> > > The
> > > recommended RMS wattage for that sub is 350, and
> the
> > > 400w amp I have
> > > puts out 300 bridged.  I don't listen to music
> at
> > > very high volumes
> > > (fried my ears already attending FAR too many
> > > concerts), don't really
> > > listen to "thump, thump" music much, and don't
> > > really want to spend
> > > much more on my setup...  I just want something
> that
> > > sounds decent...
> >
> > You're on the right track. We need to make sure we
> are
> > getting efficient use of the Amps power (and the
> > source's output).
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I also picked up a matching Power Acoustik
> 200watt 4
> > > channel amp today
> > > for free from a friend (spotted it in a pile in
> his
> > > garage), so I'd
> > > like to use that for the 6x9's.
> >
> > OK, see? You have what you need it sounds like
> (sic).
> >
> > >
> > > Should I use the 200w amp for the 6x9's, and the
> > > head unit for the
> > > front speakers?  (can I couple the head's 4x 50w
> > > outputs to make 2x
> > > 100w outputs wired only to the front speakers?)
> >
> > I would not worry so much about counting watts but
> > your plan (so far...) sounds like:
> >
> > - Head Unit Powered Output --> Door Speakers.
> > - Head Unit Signal #1 --> 400w amp -- > Sub
> > (using it's built in low pass filter one would
> hope)
> > - Head Unit Signal #2 --> 200w Amp --> Rear 6x9
> > Speakers
> > (hopefully with a High Pass Filter to keep the
> Lows
> > from getting amp's and out of the 'smaller'
> speakers).
> >
> > > > Setup, well that depends on how you do things.
> > > You've only got two pairs of
> > > > RCA preouts. So in order to run the four
> channel
> > > amop for your components
> > > > and another for the sub, youd need to split
> one
> > > line.
> > >
> >
> > Question: Does the Head Unit have a dedicated SUB
> > Output? This would be a low frequency only output,
> low
> > power signal meant to be hooked to a dedicated amp
> and
> > onto a Sub.
> >
> >
> > > I don't have any instructions or literature for
> my
> > > amp (came with a
> > > car I bought a year ago) other than the info
> here:
> > > (400w model)
> > >
> > >
> >
>
<http://bestamp.com/electronics/car_audio/amplifiers/power_acoustik/sterling/ch4_200x_800x.htm>
> > >
> > > I'm not quite understanding the whole 'channel'
> and
> > > 'bridge' thing.
> > > If I use the 4 channel 400w amp to only drive
> the
> > > (single) sub, do I
> > > have to hook both low level inputs up to the
> head
> > > unit? (ie: can I
> > > jumper the inputs w/ "Y" RCA jacks?).
> > >
> > > Might the mystery "Chn 3/4 Subwoofer" switch on
> the
> > > amp
> > > <http://home.cogeco.ca/~mardak/amp_2.jpg>) 
> allow
> > > Channels 3 & 4 to
> > > use the full power of the amp, without having to
> > > wire the input and
> > > outputs of Channels 1 & 2?  (ie: only needs a
> single
> > > two-RCA low level
> > > Chn 3/4 input, and only uses the Chn 3/4 output
> to
> > > the sub, but uses
> > > the power that would normally be reserved for
> Chn
> > > 1/2 as well - giving
> > > all 400w to Chn 3/4?)
> > >
> >
> > No. You have a Four Channel Amp. It can use the
> second
> > two channels COMBINED to act like a three channel
> amp.
> > Channels 1&2 are not part of that scenario (other
> than
> > if you ignore them and just run 3&4 Bridged (are
> say
> > to combine a Left and Right signal into a single
> SUB
> > speaker) the thing will draw less power over all
> and
> > therefore likley run cooler, etc, etc.
> >
> > Bridging is called such because you are using
> > something like a big ol' honking staple to
> physically
> > BRIDGE the two power 'sides' of an amp together.
> > Rarely are you going to find three or more
> channels
> > bridged together, hence the Even/Odd channels in
> total
> > number of channels; "4/3 Bridgeable...", etc.
> >
> > (Note: My example of the use of a _staple_ is
> somewhat
> > symbolic these days, follow your manufacturer's
> > instructions, many of which you can download off
> the
> > net.)
> >
> >
> > > How exactly do I hook up the amp output to the
> sub?
> > >
> > <snip>
> >
> > The best thing to consider is you only want to
> send
> > the 'right' frequencies to a given speaker, lows
> to
> > large diameter drivers, highs to 'tweeter's', etc.
> > What follows is you would likely not want to
> filter
> > the undesirable frequencies out _after_ you ran
> the
> > whole thing through an amp, so if possible, filter
> > prior to the amp's input. (Some Amps have built in
> > filters.)
> >
> > This goes back to finding out if the Head Unit has
> a
> 
=== message truncated ===



		
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