[OT] Stereo/sub/amp install advice needed

[scirocco16vr32 at gmail.com (Chris Bennett)]

If I may add to that... If your hatch leaks don't mount the amp in the
trunk.  It will make pretty sparks and a funny smell.

I "let the smokeout" of one amp that way.

Chris

On 11/17/05, T Berk <bayareaberk@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --- "Mark F." <mardak@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On 11/16/05, Scourge <scourge@cogeco.ca> wrote:
> >
> > > With this setup I would recommend using that amp
> to
> > power your
> > > components(6x9's and doors). And grab another amp
> > to power the sub.
> >
> >
> > So the 400w amp isn't big enough for a single 12"
> > sub?
>
> Well, _I_ think he meant it IS, but you want to use
> the four channel amp to power the 6x9s and the door
> speakers. And then use _another_ amp (dedicated,
> don'tcha know) for the Amp.
>
>
> > The
> > recommended RMS wattage for that sub is 350, and the
> > 400w amp I have
> > puts out 300 bridged.  I don't listen to music at
> > very high volumes
> > (fried my ears already attending FAR too many
> > concerts), don't really
> > listen to "thump, thump" music much, and don't
> > really want to spend
> > much more on my setup...  I just want something that
> > sounds decent...
>
> You're on the right track. We need to make sure we are
> getting efficient use of the Amps power (and the
> source's output).
>
>
> >
> > I also picked up a matching Power Acoustik 200watt 4
> > channel amp today
> > for free from a friend (spotted it in a pile in his
> > garage), so I'd
> > like to use that for the 6x9's.
>
> OK, see? You have what you need it sounds like (sic).
>
> >
> > Should I use the 200w amp for the 6x9's, and the
> > head unit for the
> > front speakers?  (can I couple the head's 4x 50w
> > outputs to make 2x
> > 100w outputs wired only to the front speakers?)
>
> I would not worry so much about counting watts but
> your plan (so far...) sounds like:
>
> - Head Unit Powered Output --> Door Speakers.
> - Head Unit Signal #1 --> 400w amp -- > Sub
> (using it's built in low pass filter one would hope)
> - Head Unit Signal #2 --> 200w Amp --> Rear 6x9
> Speakers
> (hopefully with a High Pass Filter to keep the Lows
> from getting amp's and out of the 'smaller' speakers).
>
> > > Setup, well that depends on how you do things.
> > You've only got two pairs of
> > > RCA preouts. So in order to run the four channel
> > amop for your components
> > > and another for the sub, youd need to split one
> > line.
> >
>
> Question: Does the Head Unit have a dedicated SUB
> Output? This would be a low frequency only output, low
> power signal meant to be hooked to a dedicated amp and
> onto a Sub.
>
>
> > I don't have any instructions or literature for my
> > amp (came with a
> > car I bought a year ago) other than the info here:
> > (400w model)
> >
> >
> <http://bestamp.com/electronics/car_audio/amplifiers/power_acoustik/sterling/ch4_200x_800x.htm>
> >
> > I'm not quite understanding the whole 'channel' and
> > 'bridge' thing.
> > If I use the 4 channel 400w amp to only drive the
> > (single) sub, do I
> > have to hook both low level inputs up to the head
> > unit? (ie: can I
> > jumper the inputs w/ "Y" RCA jacks?).
> >
> > Might the mystery "Chn 3/4 Subwoofer" switch on the
> > amp
> > <http://home.cogeco.ca/~mardak/amp_2.jpg>)  allow
> > Channels 3 & 4 to
> > use the full power of the amp, without having to
> > wire the input and
> > outputs of Channels 1 & 2?  (ie: only needs a single
> > two-RCA low level
> > Chn 3/4 input, and only uses the Chn 3/4 output to
> > the sub, but uses
> > the power that would normally be reserved for Chn
> > 1/2 as well - giving
> > all 400w to Chn 3/4?)
> >
>
> No. You have a Four Channel Amp. It can use the second
> two channels COMBINED to act like a three channel amp.
> Channels 1&2 are not part of that scenario (other than
> if you ignore them and just run 3&4 Bridged (are say
> to combine a Left and Right signal into a single SUB
> speaker) the thing will draw less power over all and
> therefore likley run cooler, etc, etc.
>
> Bridging is called such because you are using
> something like a big ol' honking staple to physically
> BRIDGE the two power 'sides' of an amp together.
> Rarely are you going to find three or more channels
> bridged together, hence the Even/Odd channels in total
> number of channels; "4/3 Bridgeable...", etc.
>
> (Note: My example of the use of a _staple_ is somewhat
> symbolic these days, follow your manufacturer's
> instructions, many of which you can download off the
> net.)
>
>
> > How exactly do I hook up the amp output to the sub?
> >
> <snip>
>
> The best thing to consider is you only want to send
> the 'right' frequencies to a given speaker, lows to
> large diameter drivers, highs to 'tweeter's', etc.
> What follows is you would likely not want to filter
> the undesirable frequencies out _after_ you ran the
> whole thing through an amp, so if possible, filter
> prior to the amp's input. (Some Amps have built in
> filters.)
>
> This goes back to finding out if the Head Unit has a
> SUB Output, hook this directly to the Sub's Amp and
> your done there. As for the other drivers, take a load
> off of them by avoiding having them deal with the real
> low frequencies, the Sub is taking care of that.
>
> Check those Amps for switches to aid in filtering,
> you'll like the result better, me thinks.
>
>
> TBerk
> wordy, but helpful.
>
>
>
>
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