RE: [16v] clutch slips when warm (fwd)

["T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>]

(from below)
> PS could you forward this to the list?  My email system won't allow me
> to reply to all, something about HTML.

Here's the message..

-Toby

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 07:06:46 -0700
From: "Fry, Larry" <LEF@chem-tronics.com>
To: T. Reed <treed2@u.washington.edu>
Subject: RE: [16v] clutch slips when warm

Toby-
  What seals need replacing?  You didn't specify which oil was leaking;
engine or gearbox?  If it's gearbox, then two seals can be responsible; the
clutch pushrod seal or the mainshaft seal (both on the trans, of course).
If it's engine oil, then the rear main seal is most likely the culprit.  I
have not had to change the clutch on my 16V, but have done it several times
on my son's '81 8V.  So, can't answer the disc question, except that the
stock, Sachs clutch has always worked well on the 8V and it's putting out
about 30% more torque than stock.

Special tools?
BENTLY manual,  an absolute necessity
Good floor jack, makes supporting the trans so much easier
Engine hoist, not absolutely necessary, but holds the engine helps in
tilting it down so the 5th gear housing can clear
       the sheet metal
torque wrenches, necessity, I say wrenchES; you'll want a ½" drive that goes
to about 200ftlbs and a ¼" drive in
       inch/pounds.  If you are buying them, get the clicker-type, NOT the
bending-beam.  Or you WILL regret it.
BIG ½" drive ratchet/extensions/sockets.  You will USE them.
30mm, six-point socket, ½" drive, for the hub nuts
10mm, 12 point driver (NOT a socket, similar to a Torx driver)
9mm, 12 point socket, for the pressure plate bolts
jack stands, two each.  Use 'em.
Lots of CLEAN rags, baggies, and boxes to keep the loose parts segregated
Two days time.  Once you've done it three or four times, you'll be able to
do it in two hours, but the first time? No
       way, Jose'.  Besides, you need to clean the parts/pieces/fasteners AS
YOU REMOVE THEM.  Believe me when I
       say that when you start re-assembling, you will NOT take the time to
properly clean the stuff.  Plus, the cleaner
       you keep your HANDS, the better.  And clean parts = clean hands/tools
= clean parts.  Get it?  Which reminds
       me; after all the disassembly, clean your tools...particularly the
sockets' insides.  That way all those clean
       fasteners stay that way.  Do I give the impression that things must
be clean?  Good.    It also helps to have an
       assistant, preferrably someone who's done it before, but a third
hand/tool grabber can be a life-saver when the
       trans is falling off the jack onto your arm and oil is running into
your eyes.  Use anit-seize on bolts threaded into
       blind holes and loctite on nuts.  (use common sense here)
	I can't think of much else, except keep it safe.  A car falling on
someone can make the task last much longer
      than it needs to.  (emergency room runs are such a drag)  Also, gloves
really help prevent minor wounds.
	Have a good time and enjoy the ride.
PS could you forward this to the list?  My email system won't allow me to
reply to all, something about HTML.

LARRY E. FRY ('87 16V, '81 S)
Senior Engineering Technician
GKN Aerospace, Chem-tronics, Inc.
1150 W Bradley Ave.
El Cajon, CA   92022  USA
Phone: (619) 258-5136
Fax: (619) 562-1995
Pager: (619) 682-2860



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