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Rear Shocks question

The best tool to cut it off was a 4" cheap hand held grider with a 4" Harbor Freight cut off wheel.  

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Gordy Stedman" <ydrogs@xxxxxxxxx> 
Just use common sense and keep all the sparks away from the gas tank and fuel system.  I usually make sure the wheel is spinning so the sparks shoot on the ground towards the rear of the car.  Might make for some hard locations to get at.  I think we had to remove the wheel to get access to the bolt.  Might be quicker work with an air grinder with a thin cut off wheel or electric grinder with a thin wheel, if you have one.  Never owned a dremel so do not know how well they do on cutting through steel.  Good luck! 


On 8/19/07, silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx <silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
You got my vote on that............dremel on the bottom of the old shock and an assortment of power tools to do the rest.  It's off now I just need the correct bolt.


-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Gordy Stedman" < ydrogs@xxxxxxxxx> 

> Fuck patience, cut it off and move on. It's not like you are trying to save 
> the shock for later use, you are throwing it away. Save the PB for some 
> bread and jelly. 
> 
> On 8/19/07, LEF wrote: 
> > 
> > I've yet to see a frozen bolt that heat, time, patience, perseverance, and 
> > good penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) won't take care of. 
> > 
> > larry 
> > sandiego16v 
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Peter" 
> > To: "'Cris Carpenter'" ; 
> > Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 8:20 AM 
> > Subject: RE: Rear Shocks question 

> &g t; 
> > 
> > > -----Original Message----- 
> > > From: Cris Carpenter 
> > > 
> > > We used to get the bolts to loosen up in the sleeves by heating them up 
> > > real 
> > > hot with an acetylene torch (you can only heat the exposed ends so it 
> > > takes 
> > > a while before the heat gets inside the sleeve), and then rattling them 
> > > out 
> > > with an air chisel. The idea is to get the rust holding the bolt to the 
> > > sleeve so hot that it disintegrates, but that technique requires those 
> > > tools. Another alternative is to bend the tangs of the lower supports 
> > out 
> > > to 
> > > allow some access and cutting the bolt off both sides with a metal 
> > cutting 
> > > sawzall. 
> > > 
> > > Cris 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Just a heads up... 
> > > 
> > > You have to be really careful torching gas charged shocks, because they 
> > > can 
> > > explode. 
> > > If they're Mk.1 factory shocks, then they're hydraulic shocks, so it 
> > > should 
> > > be okay. 
> > > 
> > > I usually try using a MAP gas torch, but I cut the round bottom shock 
> > > mount 
> > > off first to remove the shock, before I torch the rubber away, to expose 
> > > the 
> > > sleeve, so I don't have to worry about an explosion, and to help heat up 
> > > the 
> > > sleeve. 
> > > 3 out of 4 times, I usually end up having to cut the sleeve off anyway, 
> > > and 
> > > this is after getting them cherry red, and spraying WD-40, or water on 
> > it, 
> > > to help cool them off. 

& gt; > > 

> > > Having the bolt seize up in the sleeve, is really common around 
> > here(east 
> > > coast), and I always use anti-seize on the bolts, so it doesn't happen 
> > > again. 
> > > 
> > > Peter 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Message: 12 
> > > Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 02:15:57 +0000 
> > > From: silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > Subject: Rear Shocks question 
> > > To: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > Message-ID: 
> > > 
> > > < 
> > 081920070215.2475.46C7A7DD000E49BE000009AB2206424613CBCE9C9A079004079C@comc 
> > > ast.net> 
> > > 
> > > Content-Type: text/plain 
> > > 
> > > O.K.....so I got me some KYB Gas-A-just shocks for the rear and started 
> > on 
> > > the Passenger side. I was amazed at how easy it was to replace. 
> > > I'd say it took me 30-40 minutes to replace. I know that's probably 
> > > slow. 
> > > 
> > > Now I tackle the Driver side............4 hrs later and I still haven't 
> > > gotten the old sachs shock off. The issue I'm having is that I was able 
> > > to 
> > > remove the nut, but the bolt won't budge..........any ideas???? 
> > > I was thinking about using a dremel and cut off wheels and cut the the 
> > > bottom half of the cylinder with the bolt thru it and then cut the bolt 
> > in 
> > > half and replace. 
> > > 
> > > What have others done?? 
> > > 
> > > Karl 
> > > 
> > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > Scirocco-l mailing list 
> > > Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx 

&g t; > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > Scirocco-l mailing list 
> > > Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > Scirocco-l mailing list 
> > Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Gordy 
> MK1 x 5 
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-- 
Gordy
MK1 x 5