Stumble/miss/hesitate Was: 82 wiring diagram PDF needed...

[roccit_53 at scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca (C Boyko)]

On 12:35 am 10/01/06 "Mark F." <mk1mark@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 9/30/06, Karl Krupke <kkrup62@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >  Heya,
> >      Yeah, as Cathy says just because you've replaced a component
> >  don't assume the new one is good, not always the case
> unfortuneatly.
>
>
> The distributor only has about 10,000 miles on it, so I'm looking
> elsewhere first, but Murphy's Law might have something to say about
> that theory...  :)

Who knows eh? It's still old in years :)
>
>
>
> That's basically the way I'm going about it.  A nasty flu this week
> kept me from troubleshooting, but I'll be back at it again tomorrow...

Maybe the car has the flu too? THAT is just really what you needed eh? Get
well fast eh?
>
>

>
> It might be the swapped in knock box (from an 86 GLI), since it taps
> into engine vacuum to determine load (changing load on the engine
> seems to exaggerate the problem).  I'm going to try my friend Sean's
> knock box tomorrow since that's a quick two minute procedure...
>
> To me it seems like the engine is getting a weak or improperly timed
> spark.  The fact that it ran ok for a day after I put new plugs and
> wires on it points to a spark issue, but who knows, maybe that was
> just a coincidence.  When building this car up I discovered many
> electrical problems, and the fuse box area is quite warm when running,
> so I may also swap in another fuse box for the hell of it...
>
> If it's a fuel issue it could be the fuel pump - which might explain
> why it runs good initially until the pump quickly overheats...  I
> should also check the screen at the fuel pressure regulator for a
> buildup of crap.  The car sat for a while before I resurrected it,
> which doesn't help...

Yeah, check those screens, I was told there was also one on the distributor
somewhere, but could never locate one. I doubt the in tank screen would be
a mess, but check it, and how much does it take to clog the filter?
>
> Arrrrggggg...  I hate problems like this.  It's much easier if you
> have NO spark, or NO fuel...

Yeah, you'll have people telling you it's fuel or spark, like that is
supposed to help. Or it could be electrical, or vaccuum, related to fuel or
spark. And then the list gets way too big for anything approaching a
systematic diagnosis, cause you start not trusting anything to be good and
sound. Could be a fuel pump going south, that does sort of make sense. But
that didn't help my mess.

Here's my arschlaufen correction list, maybe something there will give you
a new useless project to try, Lord know Klaus and I have had enough
pointless bonding time:
screens, checked 3X
vaccuum hose, all new
fuel pump,check valve and hose to tank,X2, second set was new
fuel dizzy X2
plugs,new,X2
plug wires X2
coil X1
injectors X2
entire ignition setup X4
fuel pressure tests X2
timing-cam and ingition too many times
valve lash check X1
gas analysis mix tuning X2
professional mechanic's advice X3 different guys
voltage/resistance/continuity check on every pin/wire known to man or woman
X2-10
rewire fuel relay bypass at box X1
new fuel pump relay
beer-many cases
fuel filter X2
aux air valve X2
replumb hoses to said valve X2
Knock boxes X3
injector spray pattern test X2
cold start function test X1
too many other probing exercises to mention
And the pearl that solved it? A sobbing jag, and injector flow test X1
BINGO!!

All of this made sense for the symptoms at the time. It was fine at idle,
and shitty under load, so that made it harder to diagnose. What was
happening I think is that you could either tune it for rich to make the one
lean cylinder happy and the rest doggy, or lean which made three happy, and
the other one knock, so it would pull timing.

But that's not your problem, you passed the flow test. 

8Vs are easy going my ass.
Cathy







Cathy