Car No Go

[bmcgarvey at gmail.com (Brian McGarvey)]

Your Local FLAPS will have a spark checking tool for about 5.00
It sets a gap between 2 points, (use your gap) it has an alligator
clip on one end and a convient sparkplug head on the other so clip it
onto your clyn head somewhere with clean shiny metal. plug in a
sparkplug, and crank it over. This method won't care if your timing is
*on* only that it is working.

and for $100 Alex.. i mean brett
the *c* in CIS is for continuous... yes it sprays fuel all the time it
just varies the volume :-)

No spark can be alot of things, but your Dist hall sender is the most
likely problem. they leak, get oil in the mechanism, or the plastic
holding the wires in place oxidize or the wire connections corrode.

Mine broke on me once leaving me at the stoplight completely
confused... got towed home too.

Bigmac


On 11/8/06, Brett Van Sprewenburg <brett@ataxxia.com> wrote:
>
> You could spend a lot of time jumping from thing to thing trying to
> figure this out, but you really need just a few bits coming together
> at just the right time to get the engine running.
>
> 1. Fuel - you can check this in an interesting variety of ways.  One
> way that is arguably the "best" in your situation is to pull each
> injector, raise the CIS metering plate, and crank the car.  I won't
> go into the details on how to do this properly, but you're dealing
> with gas, be smart.  Is the fuel pump even running?
>
> 2. Spark - a few ways and places to check this depending on how your
> diagnoses goes (same thing for fuel BTW if you discover a problem).
> Pull plugs wires, insert metal object like a screwdriver or punch
> into the business end, hold near the cylinder head while cranking.
> Sparky? Take the necessary percautions not to shock yourself or run
> over yourself while cranking the car.  You should take care not to
> combine this test necessarily with the fuel test above unless your
> into fireballs up close and personal.  Pulled the distributer yet and
> checked the rotor and cap posts?
>
> 3. Compression - are the pistons moving up and down in a cyclic
> fashion?  Do they all move, becuase it's a bummer if they don't.  A
> compression testing can come in handy here too, as it would help
> diagnose valve train issues.  Checked the timing belt yet?
>
> Finally, all the above needs to happen at just the right time, except
> for fuel...who in the cheap seats can say what the 'c' means in
> CIS? :-)  Is you're timing "on"?  (distributing not walking around on
> you?)
>
> I've been a bit "flip" over the procedures above, but I'm serious on
> the 3 things. Check them and hopefully you'll figure it out (could
> even be a bad ignition switch, causing spark and / or fuel to be absent)
>
> I'm going to go with "spark" for $100 Alex, I mean Nate...
>
> ==Brett
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 8, 2006, at 8:59 PM, Nate Lowe wrote:
>
> > The car and I both just got a lovely ride in a tow truck to get home
> > tonight. I stopped for gas, filled up, then tried to start her up
> > to leave.
> > It turns over and over but will never "catch" and start running.
> > It's been
> > hard to start lately, takes a good 5-10 seconds to finally start
> > up. Before
> > tonight, I could try for 2-3 seconds, turn the key to the "on"
> > position
> > (before it started running), wait a second, then turn it to start
> > again and
> > it would start much easier the second time. It also started fine
> > whenever it
> > was warm. I know the "it just won't start" symptom is vague, but
> > that's all
> > I have to go on right now. Ironically, this happened while I was
> > looking at
> > a GTI I wanted to pick up as a daily. Maybe she's just jealous.
> > Nate
> >
>
>
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