What's your tune-up routine? Plus bonus ?s

[open.seas at verizon.net (Chris)]

Spewey wrote:
> Chris wrote:
>> Set the timing.
> 
> But it'll be right to begin with. 
How so?
> 
>> If you have a solid lifter head...
> 
> I bet it's hydraulic.  The only people who still use solid are either 
> neanderthals 

If we have solid lifters are we supposed to drag women by their hair 
into caves? (I hope not. Remember, "Candy is dandy but liquor is quicker.")

The only reason to use a hydraulic head is because there was no choice, 
it came that way, or the user is a wuss. Real men and women prefer solid 
things. We prefer the clatter of the solid lifter heads and valve float 
when we get well past the redline. Also, do you want it to get around 
that you are discless?

or demons striving for 9K rpm.  Skip all that.
> 
>> I like the Bosch Silber. More expensive, but last longer.
> 
> It's like getting a haircut that grows in well.  If you like getting 
> haircuts, just keep getting them.  If you want to forget about it, get 
> W7DTCs.  The Silber is a slightly better con than the Platinum.
> 
>> Redline seems to be the favorite. There are a couple of versions. 
>> Asking which is the best one for your transmission will generally 
>> result is a long debate.
> 
> Climate is a big issue here.  Speed is one thing, how you use it is a 
> bigger deal.  Where do you live and do you plan to drive it in winter?
> 
>> Brake fluid flush? (Your bleeder valves are likely to be rusty. Use a 
>> couple of shots of penetration oil 
[I meant "penetrating". Otherwise it sounds like it could be something 
else.]
  - Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Kroil
>> (another debate) over a few days before you start. Consider replacing 
>> the old bleeder valves with "Speed Bleeders".
> 
> Bigtime!  Flush is so good for it VW recommends you do it every 2 years. 
Every 2 years? I thought it said every 2 weeks! No wonder I have been 
spending so much on brake fluid.
>  All of the penetrating fluids are good but getting all of the old brake 
> fluid out is paramount.  A deep 7mm socket is key and a Mityvac bleed 
> kit jar is all I use, no pump. 

A good tip that I recently picked up from Dan Bubb is, when pumping the 
brakes, make sure you don't push the brake pedal down too far in order 
to avoid having the cups in the master cylinder go all the way to the 
end of their travel.  This helps keep them out of any accumulated gunk. 
  I think the stop in the master cylinder is supposed to prevent the 
cups from traveling so far that they lose their seal, but I'm not sure 
if ordinary wear and tear would allow that to happen.
> 
>> You do have a Bentley manual don't you?
> 
> He has the list.  Non-essential. 

I disagree. The Bentley has a ton of information, photos and drawings 
that explain procedures. It will pay for itself many times over. Also, 
why should someone re-type information that is readily available in the 
Bentley? Use the list to expand upon the Bentley, to deal with conflicts 
in information, or cover items that apply to specific vehicles that are 
not covered by the "typical" vehicle used for illustrative purposes. The 
list is good for a lot of things, but retyping the Bentley a few 
paragraphs at a time is not its best use. [Not to mention that 
occasionally a few important steps are inadvertently omitted.]

Chris
> 
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