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16v fuel pumping woes
Time to get out the ole' test light or meter...you should simply get 12V to
the pump terminals when you're cranking. You can easily get to the
terminals, which have a wire connected to each, with a little rubber boot,
which pulls away. If not, a pump is about $160 and an hour or so to change.
If somehow you're mistaken and the tank pump is also not running, you should
install a fused jumper in place of the relay (per the bentley) to test the
relay/wiring.
Tip: disconnect the fuel lines from the tank before you change the pump. I
think less fuel comes out this way (no siphoning)..not 100% sure that is the
case, but I do it anyway.
Jim
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Blake Irvin [mailto:blake@clockworm.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2005 1:39 PM
>To: Jim Ruffi
>Cc: Blake Irvin; Phil Boeye; Scirocco List
>Subject: RE: 16v fuel pumping woes
>
>
>ok - i think i described this wrong.
>
>looking at the bentley, i'd say for sure the part that was making
>the sound (sort of a dry hum, not a buzz) was the accumulator. so i
>think it was the sound of fuel rushing into the accumulator cylinder
>(?).
>
>i don't get this anymore. i CAN feel the tank pump vibrate when i
>turn the key to ON, but CAN'T feel the main pump (under the
>passenger's side?) vibrate.
>
>so i'm guessing either bad connection to the main pump, or bad main
>pump. no fuses are bad, and i don't think my relay is or the tank
>pump would not vibrate.
>
>blake/
>