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Re: Re: Stake your axle nuts!
I have followed the same procedure to tighten the rear axle nuts and have never had a problem. I suppose that if you reused the original cotter pin and it broke and fell out then you might be ridding on 3 wheels the bad way. If you read earlier posts they were refering to the front axle nuts. I have changed out a few drive lines and had to replace wheel bearings multiple times and always re-torqued the original axle nuts with my 4' - 3/4" iron pipe breaker bar. I suppose that if one can get >170lbs of torque on the axle nut then go for it. It will just be a bigger bitch to get it off when you need to replace that clicking cv or thumping wheel bearing. Damaging the threads on the axle spline sounds like a really bad idea, if I read that email right yesterday. Locktite sounds like a better solution. I do have to add that all my roccos have been 1.8l 8v :( (soon to change) so I have only exerted about 100lbs of horses and torque on my drivetrain. Things might be differe
nt if
you are racing or running a VR6 or a turbo 2.0l with NOS.
GGehrke <ggehrke@gmail.com> wrote:All this talk has got me a little nervous - last week I disassembled
my brake drums in the rear and cleaned everthing and repacked the
wheel bearings and such. When I put the bearings back on, I'm pretty
sure I followed the bentley exactly which said basically to put the
bearing in, then the thrust washer, then put the nut on and tighten it
just enough that you can still move the thrust washer sideways. I was
suprised that you weren't supposed to tighten it down any harder, but
followed the directions because, "what do I know." There was a cotter
pin that went on after that, but there wasn't anything more with this
staking stuff that I should have done, was there? Thanks.
-Grant-
Gordy S
P-Town, OR
79' Scirocco 8v X 2
80' Scirocco S 16v (work in progress)
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