WTB: Front brake lines (hard)

[brett at netacc.net (Brett VanSprewenburg)]

I'm with Peter on this one at this point...you'll have to dremel a 
couple of small
slits in what's left of the metal portion of the rubber brake line. 
As close to the
coupling as you can.  This will be an attempt to relieve the clamping 
force holding
the two together.  WARNING though...if you cut too deeply, you could score
the flared end of the hard line to the point where it may leak under pressure.

Another alternative...I broke a hard line (or two...) at some 
point...I was able to
order them up at the dealer.  Not too expensive if I remember 
correctly.  Anyway,
they came straight, but had the correct fittings obviously.  I bought 
a $5 line bending
tool (a popsicle stick like apparatus with a grooved loop in one end 
and a hook like
finger hanging off the side...those that have one know what I'm 
trying to say).  I
used the old one as a pattern and bent up the new line to match, it 
as kinda like
a 3 dimensional puzzle. The bending of it was difficult enough to do 
so that I felt
like I had some sense of accomplishment when I fitted it. :)  I'm sure you can
handle it though.

==Brett


>Brett, my problem seems to be that I keep stripping the nut on the 
>hardline itself.  I may try this idea anyway though.
>
>>
>>  From: Brett VanSprewenburg <brett@netacc.net>
>>  Date: 2004/01/01 Thu PM 06:08:56 EST
>>  To: Ryan H <rhock99@epix.net>
>>  CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>>  Subject: Re: WTB: Front brake lines (hard)
>>
>>  >Well, still trying to disconnect the hard line from the soft rubber
>>  >line in the fronts.  Used flare wrenches, PB Blaster, vice grips,
>>  >and all I've done is rounded the nut off nicely.  So I think I'm
>>  >just gonna cut the line apart with a dremel.  Anyone have a set (L
>>  >and R) of hard front lines (from the master cylinder to the wheel
>>  >well) that aren't kinked and can be packaged in a large box without
>>  >being kinked?  Oh, and off a 16V also, I think the lengths are
>>  >different because of the proportioning valves.
>>  >Thanks!
>>  >
>>
>>  Once, when I reached just about this point, I took a hacksaw to the
>>  rubber line with a
>>  vengeance.  I then used a deep socket on the remaining connector that
>>  used to have
>>  that useless rubber line attached to it. :)  Worked....course I
>>  replaced them with
>>  braided stainless steel lines after that...
>>
>>  ==Brett
>>