Battery Relocated but hard starting and running rough.

[rapieper at yahoo.com (Ron Pieper)]

Don, 

I used 00 welding cable from McMaster Carr.  I believe it took just under 16'.  Your rear ground
seems fine but what about your engine ground up front?

Ron

--- dswalterwi <dswalterwi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Ron,
> I took the fuse and holder out completely direct wired to the battery at
> the rear of the car.  I thought that had solved my problem.  The car
> starts and runs but the battery seems to degrade over a couple days till
> the car won't start.  No warning lights and the volt meter shows
> charging reading of about 13 volts (somewhere between 12 and 14 volts).
> I went back to the Monolith battery (650 CCA, 900 CCA peak) thinking the
> small Stinger didn't have enough juice but the problem is worse.
> 
> I am suspecting one of two things; one I have a bad ground which is hard
> to believe because the whole frame is acting as a ground as I am bolted
> to the seat post sanded 2 ft of 4 gauge cable.  Two the 4 gauge line
> that I am running to the front is dropping too much voltage.  With the
> car off I can measure 12.94 voltages everywhere.  With the car running I
> get about 13.9 at the battery.  So I'm suspecting I should have went
> with 0/1 gauge.  Tomorrow I am going to try running a heavier gauge line
> outside of the car from the battery positive to the front.  I have
> connectors that will except up to 0 gauge wire.  I suppose welding cable
> would be the cheapest and most flexible if that is what I decide to go
> with.  I'm currently using expensive 20ft of 4 gauge fine strand Stinger
> cable designed for audio.  If that doesn't help then I'm going to put
> the battery up near the front so I can jump the ground directly to the
> distribution block for the grounds. I am trying to isolate whether it is
> a grounding problem or loss of voltage.  Any thoughts?
> 
> Don
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
> [mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of Ron Pieper
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 3:08 AM
> To: Don Walter; Larry; Scirocco-L@scirocco.org
> Subject: Re: I'm fused but won't start
> 
> Don - Assuming your checked continuity with a ohmmeter, try checking
> with a voltmeter,  measuring
> from the line (at various points) to ground, looking for a difference
> between fuse-in and fuse-out
> conditions (do this when the engine is running).  That should identify
> the source of your problems
> - let us know what you find.
> 
> When you take the fuse from the circuit, what do you put in its place
> (how do you wire around it)?
> 
> Ron
> 
> 
> --- Don Walter <dswalterwi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > It has continuity.  All the electrical stuff works but the car won't
> start.  If I remove it and
> > direct wire it then all is well.  Can the fuse it self be restricting
> the current?
> > Don
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
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