Battery Relocated but hard starting and running rough.

[16volt at scirocco16v.com (16volt)]

It sounds to me to be a ground problem. I have my battery grounded to the
rear seatbelt center mount point. I have my main starter ground to the
tranny/block and the other main engine ground is a battery post I mounted
into the drivers side frame rail. Never had a problem with my red top
optima. Im using one gauge to the front I believe, whatever summit sell in
their kit. 

Shannon
www.scirocco16v.com
Now with vitamin T!
 
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of dswalterwi
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 8:08 PM
To: 'Ron Pieper'; Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
Subject: Battery Relocated but hard starting and running rough.

Ron,
I took the fuse and holder out completely direct wired to the battery at
the rear of the car.  I thought that had solved my problem.  The car
starts and runs but the battery seems to degrade over a couple days till
the car won't start.  No warning lights and the volt meter shows
charging reading of about 13 volts (somewhere between 12 and 14 volts).
I went back to the Monolith battery (650 CCA, 900 CCA peak) thinking the
small Stinger didn't have enough juice but the problem is worse.

I am suspecting one of two things; one I have a bad ground which is hard
to believe because the whole frame is acting as a ground as I am bolted
to the seat post sanded 2 ft of 4 gauge cable.  Two the 4 gauge line
that I am running to the front is dropping too much voltage.  With the
car off I can measure 12.94 voltages everywhere.  With the car running I
get about 13.9 at the battery.  So I'm suspecting I should have went
with 0/1 gauge.  Tomorrow I am going to try running a heavier gauge line
outside of the car from the battery positive to the front.  I have
connectors that will except up to 0 gauge wire.  I suppose welding cable
would be the cheapest and most flexible if that is what I decide to go
with.  I'm currently using expensive 20ft of 4 gauge fine strand Stinger
cable designed for audio.  If that doesn't help then I'm going to put
the battery up near the front so I can jump the ground directly to the
distribution block for the grounds. I am trying to isolate whether it is
a grounding problem or loss of voltage.  Any thoughts?

Don
-----Original Message-----
From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of Ron Pieper
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 3:08 AM
To: Don Walter; Larry; Scirocco-L@scirocco.org
Subject: Re: I'm fused but won't start

Don - Assuming your checked continuity with a ohmmeter, try checking
with a voltmeter,  measuring
from the line (at various points) to ground, looking for a difference
between fuse-in and fuse-out
conditions (do this when the engine is running).  That should identify
the source of your problems
- let us know what you find.

When you take the fuse from the circuit, what do you put in its place
(how do you wire around it)?

Ron


--- Don Walter <dswalterwi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> It has continuity.  All the electrical stuff works but the car won't
start.  If I remove it and
> direct wire it then all is well.  Can the fuse it self be restricting
the current?
> Don



	
		
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