fuel to the fire: 16v's are BAD!

[MK1Scirocco16v at comcast.net (Dave Ewing)]

> Collins says "DON'T (read that again DON'T) get a VW 16v.  They are
> absolutely junk.  If you saw the insides of one, you would puke."
Strange,
> I've seen the insides of one and it didn't cause me indigestion.
Likewise,
> I know of stock 16V bottom ends that are putting down 300 at the wheels
and
> holding up just fine.

Not only this but the blocks are almost identical to 8v motors outside of
the oil squirters.  This guy is on crack!

> Collins says "The exhaust valves are top-dead-center over the combustion
> chamber, and make a 95 degree bend around to exit the head.  BAD!"
> Top-dead-center?  Bad analysis, Mr. Collins!  BAD!  The 16V exhaust valves
> are indeed perpendicular to the cylinder bore but, on the 8V head, both
> intake and exhaust are 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the cylinder.  Flow
> bench tests are unambiguous about how much more 16Vs can flow than 8Vs and
> everyone knows it.

Also, the 16v exhaust valves are offset in the combustion chamber to allow
more of a flow (as much as can happen) after combustion where the 8v motors
sport the exhaust valve directly over the piston with (essentially) a 90
degree exit path.  Plus there is only one valve!!  :)

> Collins says "Furthermore, suppose you buy the motor, you would need the
> fuel and spark managemnt systems."  Pretty easily had through junkyard or
> Internet channels.  Fact of the matter is, you need to tweak the fuel and
> ignition on any motor if you want optimal power.

This isn't true anyway.  The knock sensor system isn't an item you HAVE to
add, only should add for detonation prevention.  If you were to run the
ignition retarded slightly and a race fuel it would work with stock 8v
parts.  I haven't done this personally but have seen others do it.  I have
done the CIS with knock sensor swap and it will run amazingly with the
potential to hit 8k plus RPM (additional work would be needed!!).

Dave