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[TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...



I eneded up using a Digifant switch bracket...has a little support that goes
to the top of the throttle body. Stopped the brackets from breaking. Mine
broke from running stiff motort mounts...too much vibration.


Mike Potter
Virtual World Parts Inc.
Sales@parts4vws.com
909-694-8600x103
888-389-7278x103

-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Bubb [mailto:jdbubb@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 9:16 AM
To: Mike Potter; Patrick Bureau; _Scirocco Mailing List
Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...


Back in the day when I had CIS I just set the CIS WOT switch right on top of
the KS WOT switch. Maybe a dumb way to do it but it worked.
Strangely enough the weight of that additional little switch was enough to
break the switch bracket several times before I welded a 1/4" thick bar
across it. It was ugly! Big old heavy bracket and a bunch of switch wires.
Dan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Potter" <Potterman@parts4vws.com>
To: "Dan Bubb" <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com>; "Patrick Bureau"
<txrocco@sbcglobal.net>; "_Scirocco Mailing List" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:56 AM
Subject: RE: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...


> Dan,  I was going to suggest the same thing. That's how mine is wired. Got
> to do it as the CIS-E Switches send a positive signal but the older Lamda
> control units need a ground to go WOT. Switch the current(via relay) &
your
> in biz!
>
> Patrick,  If I had a head or $800 to spare I'd hand it over....If you have
> one in the works it will help out. Those motors need it to breathe. Still
> that thing it a torque monster! 118lbs of torque!...my 1.8 8v is only
> getting 111.
>
> Good luck...
>
> ****When replying please copy in any original text that we have been
> previously discussing, Thank you!***
> Mike Potter
> Virtual World Parts Inc.
> Sales@parts4vws.com
> 909-694-8600x103
> 888-389-7278x103
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
> [mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Dan Bubb
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 8:27 AM
> To: Patrick Bureau; _Scirocco Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>
>
> Well, they aren't used by the KS ignition, but the CIS ecu still needs
them.
> Do me a huge favor.
> Splice into the voilet wire that runs from the KS WOT switch to pin 8 on
the
> KS ecu. This wire should have 12V when the switch is tripped. Run the wire
> from the splice to a small relay. Connect it to the relay coil. Ground the
> other side of the relay coil. Now take the two wires that used to go to
the
> old WOT switch and connect them to the two contacts on the relay that are
> shorted when the relay is activated.
> shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to rig this up for a quick test.
> Or better yet, just take the two wires that used to go to the old WOT
> switch. Short them together. With the engine idling the idle should
improve
> slightly when they are shorted. Anyway, short them together and go for a
> test drive and see if the engine has more power.
> If that works rig up the relay.
> LMK
> Dan
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Patrick Bureau
>   To: Dan Bubb ; _Scirocco Mailing List
>   Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:10 AM
>   Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>
>
>   no where.
>   patched and laying in tray, I assumed these whe no longer used by the
ecu
>
>   Dan Bubb <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>     OK. That addresses the KS ignition switches.
>     What about the wires that went to the WOT switch that was on your car
> before
>     you swapped to the Audi 5000 throttle body?
>     Where are they connected?
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: "Patrick Bureau"
>     To: "Dan Bubb" ; "_Scirocco Mailing List"
>
>     Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:55 AM
>     Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>
>
>     > I used this diagram install the knock box and switches to my car
>     >
>     htm>
>     >
>     > Dan Bubb wrote:
>     > So, Patrick!
>     > What exactly did you do with the wires that ran to the CIS WOT
switch
> when
>     > you did your conversion and added the KS ignition?
>     > Dan
>     >
>     > ----- Original Message -----
>     > From: "ATS - Patrick Bureau"
>     > To: "Dan Bubb" ; "_Scirocco Mailing List"
>     >
>     > Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 11:13 PM
>     > Subject: RE: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>     >
>     >
>     > > Mr Potter : headwork... yes I know... got 800$ to spare ? hehe I
am
>     > working
>     > > on saving the cash for a full blow reworked head (ie: racing
specs)
>     > >
>     > > Dan: as always Appreciate your inputs (even if we diagree about
that
>     > 8v/16v
>     > > thing eheh)
>     > >
>     > > 1. the TB is audi5000, I use CIS-Lambda with 16v Knock sensor/box,
> and
>     > this
>     > > included the 16v TB switches setup (2 switches),you may be on to
>     somthing
>     > > about the fuel mix, (It hink it may be fuel pressure and wil check
> that
>     > > soon), but enrichment switch.. humm. wil have to test the switches
> to
>     see
>     > if
>     > > one failed on me. good point
>     > >
>     > > 2. the fuel/air mix is not 15:1 , but close (14.8:1 average) and I
> see
>     > your
>     > > point.
>     > >
>     > > 3. I am working on geting a head reworked, as for springs, if I
did
> go
>     > > 268-272 cam would I need to change for HD ?
>     > >
>     > >
>     > > ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
>     > > ----------------------------------------------
>     > > MSN:ATSGTX@hotmail.com |YAHOO:ATSGTX@yahoo.com
>     > > ICQ:32918816 |AIM:Texasscirocco
>     > > ----------------------------------------------
>     > >
>     > >
>     > > =>-----Original Message-----
>     > > =>From: Dan Bubb [mailto:jdbubb@ix.netcom.com]
>     > > =>Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 6:18 PM
>     > > =>To: ATS - Patrick Bureau; _Scirocco Mailing List
>     > > =>Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>Personally, I thought you'd be 115-118 HP so this is a suprise!
>     > > =>There's really no way to compare my engine to yours because of
>     > > =>the Haltech,
>     > > =>but I still have some input (don't I always!)
>     > > =>A week ago I was going to suggest you include A/F ratio in your
>     > > =>runs, but I
>     > > =>see you have. There's a huge clue right there! Dead on 15:1
across
> the
>     > > =>board! CIS is awesome it can hold stoichometric so accurately!
>     > > =>Now, (this is Dan the Parent!) how many times did I give input
on
>     > > =>setting up
>     > > =>your CIS WOT switch???? If you're running at 15:1 then your
switch
>     isn't
>     > > =>triggering or there is some problem with the wiring or
something.
> Your
>     > > =>engine is constantly running closed loop. With the switch it'd
go
>     > > =>open loop
>     > > =>and drop to mid 13:1 (I presume). Now we talked briefly about
>     > > =>this at Cincy,
>     > > =>but the KS ignition WOT switch is not the CIS WOT switch and as
> far as
>     I
>     > > =>know they don't have any interconnection, but whatever, your CIS
>     > > =>WOT switch
>     > > =>is clearly not working or connected.
>     > > =>So, step one is get the frigging WOT switch wired and working. I
>     > > =>bet that'd
>     > > =>give you 5-10 HP right there.
>     > > =>The next items that come to mind are:
>     > > =>1) head, the stock GTI head just isn't that high flow. You need
a
>     ported
>     > > =>head to start making big power with the 8V (one friggen smart
>     > > =>crack from the
>     > > =>16V guys! Just one!). Not sure if a cam will do much without the
>     > > =>head work.
>     > > =>My recollection (this is Dan the old fart speaking) when I was
> running
>     a
>     > > =>stock head going to a bigger cam with the 2.0 just gutted the
> bottom
>     end
>     > > =>without adding anything to the top. I have no objective data and
> the
>     > butt
>     > > =>dyno is a notorious lier, so take that as you wish.
>     > > =>2) cam. The G grind is a good mild cam. You want an 8V to make
> power
>     you
>     > > =>need something that'll make your idle good and lumpy. 272, 280!
>     > > =>They do hurt
>     > > =>the bottom end, but the 2.0 can loose some bottom end and still
> have
>     > > =>terrific off the line acceleration.
>     > > =>3)why the hell are you running a 16V KS box? A 16V isn't an 8V
and
> the
>     > > =>ignition curve is undoubtedly different. Despite your mods I
think
> you
>     > > =>should be running an 8V KS box. Just my opinion.
>     > > =>My exhaust, flywheel, fuel pumps, CR are the substantially the
>     > > =>same as yours
>     > > =>and they support alot more HP so those aren't a big issue for
> upgrade.
>     > > =>Maybe I'll think of more later.
>     > > =>I bet you could work out the CIS WOT switch before you go to
work
>     > > =>tomorrow.
>     > > =>There's a noticable difference!
>     > > =>HTH!
>     > > =>Dan
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>----- Original Message -----
>     > > =>From: ATS - Patrick Bureau
>     > > =>To: _Scirocco Mailing List
>     > > =>Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 4:01 PM
>     > > =>Subject: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>> alright after all my work here is the results I got for my
> 8v....
>     > > =>>
>     > > =>> Best run 97.9HP @ 5200 RPM with 118.9 ft torque @ 3100 RPM,
> dwell
>     set
>     > at
>     > > =>60'
>     > > =>> and timing at 14' idle, 28' @ 3000 rpm.
>
>
>
>
>
>   ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
>   '85 2.0L Prowler Orange, Kamei X1 Rocco
>   '84 1.8L Silver Restoration and '83 Rocco Trailer Project
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