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timing marks
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far as your timing marks, are you perhaps looking at the mark on the FRONT of the cam sprocket, not the notch on the back? as far as your overheating, I'd take out the radiator and let it sit overnight with some kind of degreaser in it(I used simple green, most on the list recommend purple power which I couldn't find), then flush it out good the next day. Flush the rest of your system, then put a good coolant mix in (30/70, 40/60). Make sure you have no air pockets in the system, there are several ways people get rid of them, one is to drill little holes in the T-stat. HTH, -Rob
calimus <calimus@techography.net> wrote:Simce my rocco desided to start over heating and I'm going to be replacing
the water pump and t-stat I figured now would be a great time to replace a
few other things like the timing belt. So I've got the top timing cover off
and the crack shaft pully timing mark happened to be lined up with the arrow
on the lower cover I look up at the cam pully and notice that the timing
mark on it is no where near the mark on the valve cover. Does this mean
that maybe someone had the crack pully of and put it back on incorrectly?
The car has run great (with some minor issues) for the last 2 years since
I've owned it so I don't think the timing is actually that far off. This is
the first time I've torn things down this far so it's all greek to me at
this point. I plan on checking the bently when I go to put everything back
together but thouht I'd check here as well.
As to my over heating issue, I'm sad to say that the t-stat that I pulled
out seems to be working perfectly and there is no play in the water pump
shaft. Replacing all this anyway but I'm open to other suggestions as to
what to look for. No hoses are/were leaking and there was no oil in the
water and I can't see any evidence of water in the oil. I replaced the temp
sensor in the head and the temp gage in the cluster prior to tear down and
got the same temp readings. I don't see an increase in oil temps when the
water temp gage is reading at almost the hot mark. However the cooling fan
now isn't coming on till it's almost at the hot mark when it used to kick in
just after the needle got passed the led. Fan switch is a little over a
year old, could this be the issue? Replacing the pump anyway as it's 15
years old and I don't want to tempt fate any further. Planning on doing a
coolent flush after new pump is in, is there anything I can check while
things are mostly torn appart?
William Snyder
88' Scirocco 16v
89' Cabriolet 8v
71' Karmann Ghia
Web Page: http://www.techography.net:82/scirocco
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<DIV>far as your timing marks, are you perhaps looking at the mark on the FRONT of the cam sprocket, not the notch on the back? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>as far as your overheating, I'd take out the radiator and let it sit overnight with some kind of degreaser in it(I used simple green, most on the list recommend purple power which I couldn't find), then flush it out good the next day. Flush the rest of your system, then put a good coolant mix in (30/70, 40/60). Make sure you have no air pockets in the system, there are several ways people get rid of them, one is to drill little holes in the T-stat. HTH,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>-Rob<BR><BR><B><I>calimus <calimus@techography.net></I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Simce my rocco desided to start over heating and I'm going to be replacing<BR>the water pump and t-stat I figured now would be a great time to replace a<BR>few other things like the timing belt. So I've got the top timing cover off<BR>and the crack shaft pully timing mark happened to be lined up with the arrow<BR>on the lower cover I look up at the cam pully and notice that the timing<BR>mark on it is no where near the mark on the valve cover. Does this mean<BR>that maybe someone had the crack pully of and put it back on incorrectly?<BR>The car has run great (with some minor issues) for the last 2 years since<BR>I've owned it so I don't think the timing is actually that far off. This is<BR>the first time I've torn things down this far so it's all greek to me at<BR>this point. I plan on checking the bently when I go to put everything back<BR>together but thouht I'd check here as well.<BR><BR>As to my over heating issue, I'm sad to say that the t-stat that I pulled<BR>out seems to be working perfectly and there is no play in the water pump<BR>shaft. Replacing all this anyway but I'm open to other suggestions as to<BR>what to look for. No hoses are/were leaking and there was no oil in the<BR>water and I can't see any evidence of water in the oil. I replaced the temp<BR>sensor in the head and the temp gage in the cluster prior to tear down and<BR>got the same temp readings. I don't see an increase in oil temps when the<BR>water temp gage is reading at almost the hot mark. However the cooling fan<BR>now isn't coming on till it's almost at the hot mark when it used to kick in<BR>just after the needle got passed the led. Fan switch is a little over a<BR>year old, could this be the issue? Replacing the pump anyway as it's 15<BR>years old and I don't want to tempt fate any further. Planning on doing a<BR>coolent flush after new pump is in, is there anything I can check while<BR>things are mostly torn appart?<BR><BR>William Snyder<BR><BR>88' Scirocco 16v<BR>89' Cabriolet 8v<BR>71' Karmann Ghia<BR><BR>Web Page: http://www.techography.net:82/scirocco<BR><BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Scirocco-l mailing list<BR>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<BR>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l</BLOCKQUOTE><p><hr SIZE=1>
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