(WAY OT) Box wrench vs box spanner, the answer! was:Re: was Re: upper strut...

[ewanhopkins@hotmail.com (Ewan Hopkins)]

I had a look on craftsman.com and what I was using for the upper strut nut 
was a deep offset box wrench. I stand corrected - how could I have been so 
stupid ;-) Still a ring spanner to me!
I had trouble finding a decent picture of a box spanner on the net so this 
one will have to do - <http://www.simmonites.co.uk/acces.htm>  It's for 
undoing the hub nut on a Landrover. It's actually quite substantial but the 
ones I was thinking of used to be supplied in british car tookits for 
undoing spark plugs or that sort of thing and were pretty light and crappy. 
Hope that's cleared it up!

Ewan.


>From: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
>Reply-To: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
>To: "Ewan Hopkins" <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>, <rapieper@yahoo.com>, 
><jnbjones@boulder.net>, <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Subject: Re: was Re: upper strut nut question..., now tranny drain plug Q
>Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 06:03:41 -0800
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>Ewan-
>    Though this is not the first time my posts have been tagged as "anal", 
>I
>was trying to clarify to the list what you were talking about. Different
>people use different terms for the same thing.  In this case, I may have
>done more harm than good, since what you've just described is not what I
>know as a 'box-end wrench'.  I've tried to visualize what you are
>describing, but cannot come up with a common name.  The error lies in my
>visualization process, I'm sure.
>
>Two, makeshift tools I have seen and used are:
>A) Longish bolt  (usually a 10mm dia) with a 17mm head, grasped by
>vise-grips.  Pretty much ruins the bolt for any other use, put it works for
>removing the plugs (both drain and side fill/check)
>B) Cut the head off the above bolt and weld it to a 3" long, three-eigths
>inch extension.  This is what I am presently using. It works so well 
>because
>you can then use a torque wrench to put the proper 18 ft/lbs on the plugs
>when you re-install them.
>
>Hope this helps and good luck.  By the way, if you want me to make one of
>these tools for you, email me off-line.
>
>Larry   sandiego16V
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ewan Hopkins <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>
>To: <rocco16v@netzero.com>; <rapieper@yahoo.com>; <jnbjones@boulder.net>;
><scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:12 AM
>Subject: was Re: upper strut nut question..., now tranny drain plug Q
>
>
> > this is getting a bit anal now but, WTF, it's friday: to my feeble mind,
>box
> > wrench = box spanner = a short hexagonal tube with, basically,what 
>amounts
> > to a pivoting wire handle. Pretty agricultural but does the job.
>Alternative
> > versions are one piece cast alloy, I guess not meant to do anything
> > particularly heavy. What I was talking about was a closed end 12-point
> > wrench/spanner, usually double-ended, with the shaft turned-down at 
>either
> > end to give access to recessed nuts. Is that still a box wrench?
> >
> > On a completely differnt subject, I have a problem - need to undo the
> > transmission drain plug. Don't have the proper plug key to hand. What's
>the
> > likelihood of being able to use a wheel bolt if I file a couple of flats
>and
> > use vice-grips? Don't have time to go get the proper key.
> >
> > preparing to be educated.... ;-)
> >
> >
> > Ewan Hopkins
> >
> >
> > >From: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
> > >Reply-To: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
> > >To: "Ewan Hopkins" <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>, <rapieper@yahoo.com>,
> > ><jnbjones@boulder.net>, <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> > >Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
> > >Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:30:50 -0800
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> > >
> > >offset ring spanner = box-end wrench, I believe.  (for you non-Brits)
> > >go easy on the chisel
> > >should work out
> > >Larry
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: Ewan Hopkins <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>
> > >To: <rapieper@yahoo.com>; <jnbjones@boulder.net>;
><scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> > >Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 2:18 AM
> > >Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
> > >
> > >
> > > > IME, as long as you remember to loosen the top nut before you remove
>the
> > > > strut from the car, it's a piece of cake. I have done it many times
> > >using
> > >an
> > > > offset ring spanner and an allen key with a piece of pipe for extra
> > >leverage
> > > > - worked every time. A few taps on the nut with a hammer & chisel 
>will
> > >help
> > > > to loosen the thread.  If you undo the nut most of the way up the
>shaft
> > > > before removing the strut then it generally makes life easier. As 
>for
> > > > removing the shock from the strut, gentle bashing with a hammer on 
>the
> > >side
> > > > and top of the cap will also help to loosen the thread. Not too hard
>on
> > >the
> > > > sides mind you - going hell for leather with a 2lb mash hammer might
> > >just
> > > > distort it a bit!
> > > >
> > > > HTH,
> > > >
> > > > Ewan Hopkins
> > > > '85 Storm 2.0
> > > > '86 GT 1.8
> > > > '87 GT 1.6
> > > >
> > > > >From: Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com>
> > > > >To: Jason Jones <jnbjones@boulder.net>, scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > > >Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
> > > > >Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:13:27 -0800 (PST)
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> > > > >
> > > > >--- Jason Jones <jnbjones@boulder.net> wrote:
> > > > > > I am about to undertake my first strut replacement and am 
>worried
> > > > > > about
> > > > > > being able to remove these nuts.  Is it impossible to do without
>an
> > > > > > impact wrench?
> > > > >
> > > > >No, but it's far easier with one.
> > > > >
> > > > > >Also, I was thinking it would be safer/easier to get
> > > > > > leverage if I were to use the spring compressor with the strut
>still
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > the car and then once the nut is loosened remove the strut and
> > > > > > proceed.
> > > > > > Any issues with this?
> > > > >
> > > > >Hmmm...tight fit...too tight...BTDT.
> > > > >
> > > > >Here's what I've done in the absence of having the "right" tool.  I
> > > > >found the right sized socket, and ground a few flats into the 
>sides,
>so
> > > > >a Kentucky Fit-All (or vice-grips) would fit.  Through the square
>hole,
> > > > >I put the allen wrench, with a pipe or something to gain the 
>required
> > > > >torque.  Just loosen it a bit.
> > > > >
> > > > >Or, preferably, get the right tool.
> > > > >
> > > > >Then remove the strut, install compressors, and go to town.  YOu 
>can
> > > > >grab the shaft if you have to, since it's scrap anyway.  Trust me
> > > > >though, that steel is sooo hard that not many hand tools will touch
>it,
> > > > >so success has limited potential.
> > > > >
> > > > >AFA getting the nut that holds the shock off (you didn't ask, 
>but...)
>,
> > > > >put the strut (sans spring) back onto the hub carrier, and let the
>car
> > > > >help you out.  Put large channellocks on the nut.  Put a loong (3' 
>or
> > > > >4') cheater bar on the outside (longer) handle of the channellocks,
>and
> > > > >gronk away.  It *will* loosen.  Remember, heat is your friend.
> > > > >
> > > > > > Also, would a shop be
> > > > > > inclined to swap the cartridges for me even if I didn't purchase
> > >them
> > > > > > from them and if so, what would be an appropriate charge?
> > > > >
> > > > >That all depends on the shop!  Try an automotive machine shop that
> > > > >doesn't sell so much.  Figure 1 hour's work...what, $40, $50?
> > > > >
> > > > >=====
> > > > >Cheapass Ron
> > > > >"Victor" '87 16V Scirocco
> > > > >"Teufelhasen" '93 Cabby <-For sale
> > > > >
> > > > >If it ain't foggy, TURN OFF YOUR FOG LIGHTS.
> > > > >
> > > > >__________________________________________________
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