was Re: upper strut nut question..., now tranny drain plug Q

[ewanhopkins@hotmail.com (Ewan Hopkins)]

Sorry - in fact the 'anal' comment was directed at myself - I should have 
left it at that but I couldn't resist ;-)  No harm done, I hope, except some 
confused brains! I think I'll have a look on the Sears site or somewhere 
similar and see if I can find the tools I'm talking about.

Ewan.


>From: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
>Reply-To: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
>To: "Ewan Hopkins" <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>, <rapieper@yahoo.com>, 
><jnbjones@boulder.net>, <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Subject: Re: was Re: upper strut nut question..., now tranny drain plug Q
>Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 06:03:41 -0800
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>Ewan-
>    Though this is not the first time my posts have been tagged as "anal", 
>I
>was trying to clarify to the list what you were talking about. Different
>people use different terms for the same thing.  In this case, I may have
>done more harm than good, since what you've just described is not what I
>know as a 'box-end wrench'.  I've tried to visualize what you are
>describing, but cannot come up with a common name.  The error lies in my
>visualization process, I'm sure.
>
>Two, makeshift tools I have seen and used are:
>A) Longish bolt  (usually a 10mm dia) with a 17mm head, grasped by
>vise-grips.  Pretty much ruins the bolt for any other use, put it works for
>removing the plugs (both drain and side fill/check)
>B) Cut the head off the above bolt and weld it to a 3" long, three-eigths
>inch extension.  This is what I am presently using. It works so well 
>because
>you can then use a torque wrench to put the proper 18 ft/lbs on the plugs
>when you re-install them.
>
>Hope this helps and good luck.  By the way, if you want me to make one of
>these tools for you, email me off-line.
>
>Larry   sandiego16V
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ewan Hopkins <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>
>To: <rocco16v@netzero.com>; <rapieper@yahoo.com>; <jnbjones@boulder.net>;
><scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:12 AM
>Subject: was Re: upper strut nut question..., now tranny drain plug Q
>
>
> > this is getting a bit anal now but, WTF, it's friday: to my feeble mind,
>box
> > wrench = box spanner = a short hexagonal tube with, basically,what 
>amounts
> > to a pivoting wire handle. Pretty agricultural but does the job.
>Alternative
> > versions are one piece cast alloy, I guess not meant to do anything
> > particularly heavy. What I was talking about was a closed end 12-point
> > wrench/spanner, usually double-ended, with the shaft turned-down at 
>either
> > end to give access to recessed nuts. Is that still a box wrench?
> >
> > On a completely differnt subject, I have a problem - need to undo the
> > transmission drain plug. Don't have the proper plug key to hand. What's
>the
> > likelihood of being able to use a wheel bolt if I file a couple of flats
>and
> > use vice-grips? Don't have time to go get the proper key.
> >
> > preparing to be educated.... ;-)
> >
> >
> > Ewan Hopkins
> >
> >
> > >From: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
> > >Reply-To: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
> > >To: "Ewan Hopkins" <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>, <rapieper@yahoo.com>,
> > ><jnbjones@boulder.net>, <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> > >Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
> > >Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:30:50 -0800
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> > >From rocco16v@netzero.com Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:15:14 -0800
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> > >
> > >offset ring spanner = box-end wrench, I believe.  (for you non-Brits)
> > >go easy on the chisel
> > >should work out
> > >Larry
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: Ewan Hopkins <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>
> > >To: <rapieper@yahoo.com>; <jnbjones@boulder.net>;
><scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> > >Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 2:18 AM
> > >Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
> > >
> > >
> > > > IME, as long as you remember to loosen the top nut before you remove
>the
> > > > strut from the car, it's a piece of cake. I have done it many times
> > >using
> > >an
> > > > offset ring spanner and an allen key with a piece of pipe for extra
> > >leverage
> > > > - worked every time. A few taps on the nut with a hammer & chisel 
>will
> > >help
> > > > to loosen the thread.  If you undo the nut most of the way up the
>shaft
> > > > before removing the strut then it generally makes life easier. As 
>for
> > > > removing the shock from the strut, gentle bashing with a hammer on 
>the
> > >side
> > > > and top of the cap will also help to loosen the thread. Not too hard
>on
> > >the
> > > > sides mind you - going hell for leather with a 2lb mash hammer might
> > >just
> > > > distort it a bit!
> > > >
> > > > HTH,
> > > >
> > > > Ewan Hopkins
> > > > '85 Storm 2.0
> > > > '86 GT 1.8
> > > > '87 GT 1.6
> > > >
> > > > >From: Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com>
> > > > >To: Jason Jones <jnbjones@boulder.net>, scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > > >Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
> > > > >Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:13:27 -0800 (PST)
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> > >27
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> > > > >
> > > > >--- Jason Jones <jnbjones@boulder.net> wrote:
> > > > > > I am about to undertake my first strut replacement and am 
>worried
> > > > > > about
> > > > > > being able to remove these nuts.  Is it impossible to do without
>an
> > > > > > impact wrench?
> > > > >
> > > > >No, but it's far easier with one.
> > > > >
> > > > > >Also, I was thinking it would be safer/easier to get
> > > > > > leverage if I were to use the spring compressor with the strut
>still
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > the car and then once the nut is loosened remove the strut and
> > > > > > proceed.
> > > > > > Any issues with this?
> > > > >
> > > > >Hmmm...tight fit...too tight...BTDT.
> > > > >
> > > > >Here's what I've done in the absence of having the "right" tool.  I
> > > > >found the right sized socket, and ground a few flats into the 
>sides,
>so
> > > > >a Kentucky Fit-All (or vice-grips) would fit.  Through the square
>hole,
> > > > >I put the allen wrench, with a pipe or something to gain the 
>required
> > > > >torque.  Just loosen it a bit.
> > > > >
> > > > >Or, preferably, get the right tool.
> > > > >
> > > > >Then remove the strut, install compressors, and go to town.  YOu 
>can
> > > > >grab the shaft if you have to, since it's scrap anyway.  Trust me
> > > > >though, that steel is sooo hard that not many hand tools will touch
>it,
> > > > >so success has limited potential.
> > > > >
> > > > >AFA getting the nut that holds the shock off (you didn't ask, 
>but...)
>,
> > > > >put the strut (sans spring) back onto the hub carrier, and let the
>car
> > > > >help you out.  Put large channellocks on the nut.  Put a loong (3' 
>or
> > > > >4') cheater bar on the outside (longer) handle of the channellocks,
>and
> > > > >gronk away.  It *will* loosen.  Remember, heat is your friend.
> > > > >
> > > > > > Also, would a shop be
> > > > > > inclined to swap the cartridges for me even if I didn't purchase
> > >them
> > > > > > from them and if so, what would be an appropriate charge?
> > > > >
> > > > >That all depends on the shop!  Try an automotive machine shop that
> > > > >doesn't sell so much.  Figure 1 hour's work...what, $40, $50?
> > > > >
> > > > >=====
> > > > >Cheapass Ron
> > > > >"Victor" '87 16V Scirocco
> > > > >"Teufelhasen" '93 Cabby <-For sale
> > > > >
> > > > >If it ain't foggy, TURN OFF YOUR FOG LIGHTS.
> > > > >
> > > > >__________________________________________________
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