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Re: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?



I have the Craftsman stud tool also but I believe what Aaron is talking
about is one that looks like a socket and actually has tumbler like pieces
inside the socket that grip the stud on 3 or 4 sides and being real easy on
the threads.  These are also available at Harbor Freight in a set of 3 or 4
for like $12 and they have been decent about taking the one size that you
use alot back on exchange BUT you have to have atleast 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch
of stud sticking out of whatever you are using it on for it to work well at
all.  All they do is make it a little faster to pull studs out and install
studs.  The BEST way is to double nut then you don't hurt the studs and if
you have 3/4 of an inch of stud sticking out you can double nut.  I have a
set of the stud removal sockets and they do work well but mostly just to
pull studs from a head to have it surfaced or to install new studs or
something like that.  Even the snap-on versions are not tough enough to take
the amount of torque needed to pull a seized rusted stud but the combination
of the socket and heat works pretty good.  HTH!

Dave

> I'm a fan of heat as my last post on this subject stated. Haven't broken a
> stud since the last time I was out of bottled gas.
>
> I have one of those stud tools, it's a Craftsman. I've found that it isn't
> very useful at removing studs unless they are close to coming out anyway.
I
> use mine for setting new studs as it doesn't mar the threads like pliers
do
> and double nut can stretch the stud.
>
> The steam trick works great but you need a little more steam than a spray
> bottle will generate. This steam trick will work for the stuck inner wheel
> bearing race. Get the race cherry red and drop it in a 5 gallon bucket of
> cold water and the race will fall off 9 out of 10 times.
>
> IMHO Kroil is the hands down best penetrating oil there is.
>
> Rick Alexander
> http://www.brubakerbox.com
> http://clubs.hemmings.com/hams/
> http://clubs.hemmings.com/vwsrus/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Ness" <aaron@makuta.com>
> To: "'Fry, Larry'" <LEF@chem-tronics.com>; "'Bob & Ann'"
> <angus6@socket.net>; "'Victor Farren'" <vfarren@smtp.cdie.org>;
> <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 10:36 AM
> Subject: RE: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?
>
>
> > I was in an exhaust shop having some work done, and while I was there,
the
> > guy was removing some studs from another manifold someone brought in.
He
> > had a Snap-On socket that somehow grips studs (I didn't see what was
> inside,
> > and have never had a chance to look at one), and he was hitting them
with
> a
> > torch and a spray bottle full of water.  He said the steam somehow
> loosened
> > them to a point that he could turn them out with his stud extractor, and
> > that he never uses penetrating fluid.
> >
> > I know most of us probably don't have access to an acetylene torch (I
> > typically don't), so penetrating fluid and a propane torch have worked
> well
> > for me in the past.  BTW, don't confuse WD-40 with a legitimate
> penetrating
> > fluid.  If you can, get your hands on some Kroil
<http://www.kanolabs.com>
> > or PB.
> >
> > Aaron
> > '87 528e
> > '82 Scirocco
> > '70 Beetle
> > '82 GPz550
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > [mailto:owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Fry, Larry
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 9:23 AM
> > To: Bob & Ann; Victor Farren; mpeters6@rochester.rr.com;
> > scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > Subject: RE: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?
> >
> >
> > In all my years, I have never, ever successfully used an easy-out UNLESS
> > liberal applications of heat and penetrating oil preceeded their use.
Of
> > course, if I'd applied the heat/oil BEFORE I tried to remove the
> bolt/stud,
> > the need for the easy-out would have been avoided....:)
> >
> > Try the heat/oil/easy-out first.  Then be prepared to drill and tap,
> > probably going to the next larger size, since you'll inevitably damage
the
> > original threads.  Good luck and enjoy the ride.
> >
> > Larry  sandiego16V
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bob & Ann [mailto:angus6@socket.net]
> > Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 11:36 AM
> > To: Victor Farren; mpeters6@rochester.rr.com; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?
> >
> >
> > From my experience with easy-out I would recommend that if you have to
go
> > that way get a set of Hansen easy outs, Their short & hex
> > headed and I've NEVER seen one break yet,plus they grip better than the
> long
> > 4 sided ones or the spiral ones
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > My experience is that if the easy out breaks while trying to extract
> frozen
> > studs, you are screwed.  They are made of a substance
> > that is impervious to drill bits.  Here is what I would do:
> > Victor
> >
> > >>> "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com> 10/29 10:42 AM >>>
> > I busted all those studs trying to get the old DP off.  Can i just get
an
> > easy-out and screw them out, or will I need to drill them out and retap
> the
> > threads?  If so, what size tap?  Help!
> >
> > Its an 8 valve.
> >
> > TIA,
> > Marc
> >
> >
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> >
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