Re: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?

["Rick Alexander" <rick@brubakerbox.com>]

I'm a fan of heat as my last post on this subject stated. Haven't broken a
stud since the last time I was out of bottled gas.

I have one of those stud tools, it's a Craftsman. I've found that it isn't
very useful at removing studs unless they are close to coming out anyway. I
use mine for setting new studs as it doesn't mar the threads like pliers do
and double nut can stretch the stud.

The steam trick works great but you need a little more steam than a spray
bottle will generate. This steam trick will work for the stuck inner wheel
bearing race. Get the race cherry red and drop it in a 5 gallon bucket of
cold water and the race will fall off 9 out of 10 times.

IMHO Kroil is the hands down best penetrating oil there is.

Rick Alexander
http://www.brubakerbox.com
http://clubs.hemmings.com/hams/
http://clubs.hemmings.com/vwsrus/

----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Ness" <aaron@makuta.com>
To: "'Fry, Larry'" <LEF@chem-tronics.com>; "'Bob & Ann'"
<angus6@socket.net>; "'Victor Farren'" <vfarren@smtp.cdie.org>;
<mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 10:36 AM
Subject: RE: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?


> I was in an exhaust shop having some work done, and while I was there, the
> guy was removing some studs from another manifold someone brought in.  He
> had a Snap-On socket that somehow grips studs (I didn't see what was
inside,
> and have never had a chance to look at one), and he was hitting them with
a
> torch and a spray bottle full of water.  He said the steam somehow
loosened
> them to a point that he could turn them out with his stud extractor, and
> that he never uses penetrating fluid.
>
> I know most of us probably don't have access to an acetylene torch (I
> typically don't), so penetrating fluid and a propane torch have worked
well
> for me in the past.  BTW, don't confuse WD-40 with a legitimate
penetrating
> fluid.  If you can, get your hands on some Kroil <http://www.kanolabs.com>
> or PB.
>
> Aaron
> '87 528e
> '82 Scirocco
> '70 Beetle
> '82 GPz550
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> [mailto:owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Fry, Larry
> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 9:23 AM
> To: Bob & Ann; Victor Farren; mpeters6@rochester.rr.com;
> scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: RE: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?
>
>
> In all my years, I have never, ever successfully used an easy-out UNLESS
> liberal applications of heat and penetrating oil preceeded their use.  Of
> course, if I'd applied the heat/oil BEFORE I tried to remove the
bolt/stud,
> the need for the easy-out would have been avoided....:)
>
> Try the heat/oil/easy-out first.  Then be prepared to drill and tap,
> probably going to the next larger size, since you'll inevitably damage the
> original threads.  Good luck and enjoy the ride.
>
> Larry  sandiego16V
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob & Ann [mailto:angus6@socket.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 11:36 AM
> To: Victor Farren; mpeters6@rochester.rr.com; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold-downpipe studs? Replaceable?
>
>
> From my experience with easy-out I would recommend that if you have to go
> that way get a set of Hansen easy outs, Their short & hex
> headed and I've NEVER seen one break yet,plus they grip better than the
long
> 4 sided ones or the spiral ones
> Bob
>
>
> My experience is that if the easy out breaks while trying to extract
frozen
> studs, you are screwed.  They are made of a substance
> that is impervious to drill bits.  Here is what I would do:
> Victor
>
> >>> "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com> 10/29 10:42 AM >>>
> I busted all those studs trying to get the old DP off.  Can i just get an
> easy-out and screw them out, or will I need to drill them out and retap
the
> threads?  If so, what size tap?  Help!
>
> Its an 8 valve.
>
> TIA,
> Marc
>
>
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