Re: lets see, staart engine then hook up ammeter...crank..crank..crank... FUÇK!

["Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>]

 The grounding the end of the plug method was also the preferred way to test
spark on a Hirth 399 cc powered 1970's snowmobile I had.  Someone (er, um,
yeah) had swapped in high output coils and "modified" the timing a bit. :)
We burned up plugs on a bi-weekly regular basis, but man that thing did
move.

Marc

 ----- Original Message -----
 From: "16V Jason" <jason@scirocco.org>
 To: "Michael Abatzis" <abatzis2@hotmail.com>; Sir_Rocco@veedub.com>;
<scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
 Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2001 3:58 PM
 Subject: Re: lets see, staart engine then hook up
 ammeter...crank..crank..crank... FUÇK!


 > Dan,
> >          The Tach bouncing thing isn't all that uncommon -- mine does
the
> > same thing.  It shows, more than anything else, that the coil isn't
> getting
> > enough juice.  A brand new battery solves the problem for me, and then
> gets
> > gradually worse for a few years until the battery gives out.  On my car,
> > it's grounding issues to the block, as I've grounded everything else.
> >
> >          I still haven't seen you talk about checking to see if the coil
> is
> > putting out any spark.  To me it sounds like  you're not getting any
> spark.
> >
> >          According to the Bentley, this is the best way to test for
> > spark.  You'll need a helper:  Remove one of your ignition wires from a
> > plug, and push a known working plug into it.  Allow the metal body of
the
> > plug (NOT the electrode at the end) to touch a known good ground (your
> > alternator bracket should work fine) and have your helper turn the
> > key.  While the engine cranks, you should see a spark jump the gap of
the
> > plug.  The bluer the spark, the healthier (=stronger) it is.
> >
> >          If you don't see a spark, make sure your distributor is
> > turning.  Remove the cap and kick the starter on.  If it doesn't turn,
you
> > broke a timing belt.  There should also be no oil in there.  If you see
> oil
> > in the dist, the seal broke and you need to replace the dist.
> >
> >          If the dist is turning and you're not getting spark, there is a
> > series of electrical tests to follow in the Bentley.  Ask me, I know --
I
> > just did them on an 87 16V Jetta last week.  They're easy tests for the
> > most part; making sure that the Hall Sender is getting power, making
sure
> > that the coil is getting power, and then making that the coil is good.
> >
> >          On the Jetta, the problem turned out to be that it wasn't
getting
> > spark because the small computer (the one that is screwed to the top of
> the
> > larger K-Jetronic computer) had failed.  We swapped it with one that was
> > known to work and *boom*.  Car started and ran normally.
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Jason
> >
> >
> >
> > At 06:59 PM 9/28/2001, Michael Abatzis wrote:
> > >does it work w/o the harness? are you hooking it up to the dpr? the
> > >potentiometer towards the front of car on the fuel meter valve thing
> > >(can't remember the correct name) looks similar. sounds like maybe you
> > >bumped a wire on the hall sender. are you getting a spark?
> > >-michael
> > >
> > >>
> > >>ok, so i made a harness and everything for the mixture test.  Go to
> start
> > >>the car, nothing.  i smell gas, but it doesnt start.  The tach jumps
> when
> > >>im cranknig it, sometimes up to 5000rpm.  Check all the grounds, coil
is
> > >>connected, grounds are connected, plug wires are connected, no fuel
> > >>leaks, CSV working perfect, what else could it be?  so i drain the
> > >>coolant and replace the thermotime switch which was faulty, but the
> > >>engine used to start.  now it wont.  Cant find my 5/8th plug socket so
> > >>cant replace teh plugs.  Could plugs fouled with soot from an
extremely
> > >>rich engine cause it to not start? or has my coil died?  Really
getting
> > >>sick of my car not working....
> > >>
> > >>please help
> > >>
> > >>dan miller
> > >>
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