Re: (tech)2.0 L 16V Build.

[Gary Huff <scirocco86@home.com>]

I'm getting in on this. I want to add some comments/questions.

the mad bastard wrote:
> 
> >  Here is the goal-    2.0L 16 V - with 1.8L head, Scirocco 16V Exhaust
> > Manifold, Polished Intake Manifold.    I want 180 hp (total) I want more
> > bottom end then top speed.

Why the 1.8l head? The 2.0l head flows 20 more cfm out of the exhaust
ports where as the 1.8l head flows 10cfm more than the 2.0l head through
the intake ports. A 2.0l head ported, polished, and milled to death
should flow more and produce more power than a 1.8l 16v head. Food for
thought.

>     you haven't mentioned exhuast.  TT race header is SHIT if you have a
> seriously lowered car.  best $800CDN i ever blew :(.  for one thing, i
> couldn't put on the 16V rocco sway bar, cuz the monster is just too big.
> plus, whenever i was racing people and i would go over a bump at night, i'd
> throw sparks off my header cuz it hung so low.  when i was at waterfest, i
> took off my front wheels and put on two donuts that i brought with me for
> the expres purpose of blowing up.

I'm building a hot 16v motor, and I'm going with the Super Sprint header
& resonator. I figure I can tune it to pass the treadmill test for
emissions as long as it passes visual.

>     well, as luck would have it, when lowered to the ground, the lowest part
> of the header was about 1/8th of an inch from the ground.  so, if i had
> blown up the rubber as planned, i'd end up crushing my header in the
> process.
> 
>     i've gone back to the TT race downpipe, what i should've got in the
> first place, and will be putting that on in the next few weeks.  this will
> also let me twist my coilovers down some more.  can't wait...
> 
>     oh yeah, and WRT exhaust, a TT 2.25" setup is the best, IMHO.
> 
> > The car will be a daily driver for the most
> > part so I need a degree of drivability. I love torque.     My towns a
> > college town Lots of hondas-  I drive a BRIGHT yellow scirroco-  I hate
> > to lose.      the parts listed in this paragraph are all that I have
> > (block, stock crank, pistons, rods, 1.8l head (with burnt valves),
> > intake, and exhaust Manifold).
> 
>     sounds pretty familiar...:)
> 
>     i gotta tell ya, the mk1 rocco allows the best of both worlds WRT torque
> and hp.   since the cars are so bloody light, whatever power that your motor
> has will be fully excercised.
> 
>     make sure that you have a good set of tires.  shit tires = shit grip =
> shitty grins from drivers of slower cars with better rubber than you.
> 
>     i love the A520 to death, and would suggest them for you.  however, i
> don't know if you kids in the US get the A520s in anything smaller than 16s
> anymore.  AFAIK, we still get them in 14/15" sizes here in canada.  with a
> set of 185.60.14s, you'll have less rotational mass, a small diameter, mad
> grip, and a sexy footprint.
> 
> > I NEED
> > 1)Valves-   high performance?  what brands?  will the lengths change or
> > stem thicknesses?
> 
>     i don't think that there's any need to swap them out.  i haven't.

If his are burnt, there are. My current 1.8 head has bad/burnt valves in
it. Unfortunately being in the situation I was at the time I had to put
it on and tune/drive the car the way it was so I still had a job. Now I
have the luxury of fixing it properly. There really aren't many
performance valve choices, and I don't see the merits of going with them
in a 16v head anyways. (Why go with lighter valves in a hydraulic lifter
head? Maybe I'm a loner on this one) I am just going to put a new set of
valves & necessary hardware in the head along with high perf valve
springs. 
 
> > 2) springs-
> 
>     i purchased a set of TT high performace springs, and they seem to work
> fine.  the car will see 7000rpm at least 20 twenty times a day.  no valve
> float that i can tell.  i ran with brett when he did his 130ish run, and the
> motor had lots of pull (if only the bastard had let me draft him for a bit
> longer, i woulda had him...i demand a rematch, brett!)

TT 16v high perf springs all the way. There's a set going in my 2.0l 16v
head that's getting built (eventually).

> > 3) cams. I want schricks-  should I run 276 or 286 or?   remember this
> > is a daily driver.
> 
>     here's where my opinion comes in.  since the car is so light, you can
> probably run the retarded cams and not lose too much bottom end.  276šs are,
> by nature, top end cams, and will kill your bottom end.  of course, when the
> thing starts spinning at about 4000, hold on, it'll wrap your tach in no
> time.  in which case, you had better have a motronic setup.
> 
>     IMO, the schrick mixes are the best.  depending on what fuelling you use
> (CIS-E, motronic), will define what combo to use.  CIS-E should probably see
> best results with the 260/268 combo as the van sprew said, but with the
> motronic, i think that the 260/276 will be a little nicer, cuz the garrett
> chip'll allow you to bang off the 7900 limiter all day long.

Yup. I'm going to probably run a set of 272's. 

> > 4) crankshaft-  I heard something about getting the "diesel" crank.  and
> > then something about a TDI? should I just maintain with the stock crank?
> 
>     i think that it was jasin larsen that said that "it is the most
> expensive 1hp you will ever buy".  funny as hell, but has the torque been
> considered?  true, hp won't go up much, but the torque should go up
> considerably.  will the motor still twist as quickly?  as smoothly?  i've no
> idea.
> 
>     personally, i've remained with the stock crank (2084cc), and have made a
> lot of people look foolish in front of their friends.  i think that you
> should save the wad you'd spend on this for a lightened flywheel, and full
> engine rebuild, or head work.  cranks are retardedly expensive.

I considered this, but do to all of the machining needed and price of
acquiring one, forget it. Not worth it unless you absolutely *NEED* that
torque.

> > 5)Lifters
> 
>     if it's a used motor, assume the worst and go grab a new set...

Agreed. 

> > 6) pushrods
> 
>     conrods?  if you're going turbo, go aftermarket.  who?  i dunno.  ARP
> rod bolts fo damn sho, tho.

VW watercooled (I honestly have never seen the inside of an aircooled
motor) motors don't use pushrods. Pushrods are stupid. They make sense
on large V motors, but for Inline OHC/OHV motors don't. Why have all
that more metal and moving parts when you can have the cam simply
"riding" on top of a set of lifters?

> > 7) oil pump (high pro?)
> 
>     i've the stock one, and i'm still happy.

I'm going with a high volume pump. 

> > 8) water pump- thermostat?  what temp for my area- WA state (brrrr).
> > should I keep my stock fan? (81 storm w/ ac)
> 
>     shouldn't be a problem.  i dunno, tho.  i've got a 16V rocco non-AC
> unit, and the car will only see super-hot temps when sitting in traffic on a
> really hot day, or when running topped-out against a van sprew for a couple
> minutes. :)

OEM water pump, low temp thermostat. You have a mk1 storm? I thought
these only existed in england?
 
> > 9) brass freeze plugs?   what the hell?
> 
>     i dunno.

Part of a rebuild. Have the machine shop doing the work to the block
replace these. They are a bitch to do yourself.

> > 10) Pistons-  cast, forged, aluminum?   what is second size over?
> 
>     once again, unless you're strapping some kind of forced induction, i
> don't think that pistons would be necessary.  take a look at the rings, and
> maybe replace with a set of total seal gapless units to be safe.  i've heard
> conflicting stories that on a forced-induction motor, the total seals are
> absolutely a necessity.  but on a NA motor, they're not a good idea?  why?
> i dunno.  i think that physics should apply to both motors in much the same
> way, so when it's time for me to replace my rings, i'm going total seal.

Oversized cast pistons. I think you can get them in 83.5 . I'm goign
with cast pistons & moly rings.

> > Thanks in advance.
> 
>     glad to help you with something, bro...
> 
> jason
> the mad bastard
> 
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Good luck
	-Gary Huff

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