Re: (tech)2.0 L 16V Build.

["the mad bastard" <the-mad-bastard@home.com>]

>  Here is the goal-    2.0L 16 V - with 1.8L head, Scirocco 16V Exhaust
> Manifold, Polished Intake Manifold.    I want 180 hp (total) I want more
> bottom end then top speed.

    you haven't mentioned exhuast.  TT race header is SHIT if you have a
seriously lowered car.  best $800CDN i ever blew :(.  for one thing, i
couldn't put on the 16V rocco sway bar, cuz the monster is just too big.
plus, whenever i was racing people and i would go over a bump at night, i'd
throw sparks off my header cuz it hung so low.  when i was at waterfest, i
took off my front wheels and put on two donuts that i brought with me for
the expres purpose of blowing up.

    well, as luck would have it, when lowered to the ground, the lowest part
of the header was about 1/8th of an inch from the ground.  so, if i had
blown up the rubber as planned, i'd end up crushing my header in the
process.

    i've gone back to the TT race downpipe, what i should've got in the
first place, and will be putting that on in the next few weeks.  this will
also let me twist my coilovers down some more.  can't wait...

    oh yeah, and WRT exhaust, a TT 2.25" setup is the best, IMHO.

> The car will be a daily driver for the most
> part so I need a degree of drivability. I love torque.     My towns a
> college town Lots of hondas-  I drive a BRIGHT yellow scirroco-  I hate
> to lose.      the parts listed in this paragraph are all that I have
> (block, stock crank, pistons, rods, 1.8l head (with burnt valves),
> intake, and exhaust Manifold).

    sounds pretty familiar...:)

    i gotta tell ya, the mk1 rocco allows the best of both worlds WRT torque
and hp.   since the cars are so bloody light, whatever power that your motor
has will be fully excercised.

    make sure that you have a good set of tires.  shit tires = shit grip =
shitty grins from drivers of slower cars with better rubber than you.

    i love the A520 to death, and would suggest them for you.  however, i
don't know if you kids in the US get the A520s in anything smaller than 16s
anymore.  AFAIK, we still get them in 14/15" sizes here in canada.  with a
set of 185.60.14s, you'll have less rotational mass, a small diameter, mad
grip, and a sexy footprint.

> I NEED
> 1)Valves-   high performance?  what brands?  will the lengths change or
> stem thicknesses?

    i don't think that there's any need to swap them out.  i haven't.

> 2) springs-

    i purchased a set of TT high performace springs, and they seem to work
fine.  the car will see 7000rpm at least 20 twenty times a day.  no valve
float that i can tell.  i ran with brett when he did his 130ish run, and the
motor had lots of pull (if only the bastard had let me draft him for a bit
longer, i woulda had him...i demand a rematch, brett!)

> 3) cams. I want schricks-  should I run 276 or 286 or?   remember this
> is a daily driver.

    here's where my opinion comes in.  since the car is so light, you can
probably run the retarded cams and not lose too much bottom end.  276šs are,
by nature, top end cams, and will kill your bottom end.  of course, when the
thing starts spinning at about 4000, hold on, it'll wrap your tach in no
time.  in which case, you had better have a motronic setup.

    IMO, the schrick mixes are the best.  depending on what fuelling you use
(CIS-E, motronic), will define what combo to use.  CIS-E should probably see
best results with the 260/268 combo as the van sprew said, but with the
motronic, i think that the 260/276 will be a little nicer, cuz the garrett
chip'll allow you to bang off the 7900 limiter all day long.

> 4) crankshaft-  I heard something about getting the "diesel" crank.  and
> then something about a TDI? should I just maintain with the stock crank?

    i think that it was jasin larsen that said that "it is the most
expensive 1hp you will ever buy".  funny as hell, but has the torque been
considered?  true, hp won't go up much, but the torque should go up
considerably.  will the motor still twist as quickly?  as smoothly?  i've no
idea.

    personally, i've remained with the stock crank (2084cc), and have made a
lot of people look foolish in front of their friends.  i think that you
should save the wad you'd spend on this for a lightened flywheel, and full
engine rebuild, or head work.  cranks are retardedly expensive.

> 5)Lifters

    if it's a used motor, assume the worst and go grab a new set...

> 6) pushrods

    conrods?  if you're going turbo, go aftermarket.  who?  i dunno.  ARP
rod bolts fo damn sho, tho.

> 7) oil pump (high pro?)

    i've the stock one, and i'm still happy.

> 8) water pump- thermostat?  what temp for my area- WA state (brrrr).
> should I keep my stock fan? (81 storm w/ ac)

    shouldn't be a problem.  i dunno, tho.  i've got a 16V rocco non-AC
unit, and the car will only see super-hot temps when sitting in traffic on a
really hot day, or when running topped-out against a van sprew for a couple
minutes. :)

> 9) brass freeze plugs?   what the hell?

    i dunno.

> 10) Pistons-  cast, forged, aluminum?   what is second size over?

    once again, unless you're strapping some kind of forced induction, i
don't think that pistons would be necessary.  take a look at the rings, and
maybe replace with a set of total seal gapless units to be safe.  i've heard
conflicting stories that on a forced-induction motor, the total seals are
absolutely a necessity.  but on a NA motor, they're not a good idea?  why?
i dunno.  i think that physics should apply to both motors in much the same
way, so when it's time for me to replace my rings, i'm going total seal.

> Thanks in advance.

    glad to help you with something, bro...

jason
the mad bastard


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