Re: [tech] engine swap woes-> auto to 5 speed? HELP!

[T Berk <tberk@mindspring.com>]

Michael Abatzis wrote:
> 
> ok, so the swap (1.8 16v-->2.0 16v) was going smoothly. got the old engine
> out, separated the tranny, and... crap. i have to take the clutch apart and
> switch to the new block. ok, i just wish i had bought a new clutch before
> starting*. hmmm. the mounting plate is different on the new engine. but
> everything _seemed_ to fit together ok.  then the crank wouldn't turn when
> it was back together. after many hours of cursing, modifying,
> disassemble/reassembling, figured out that the new block was an automatic.

>From the outside going IN the Auto has a 

1. Washer (thick) w/ large bolts
2. Drive Plate (with starter gears on it.)
3. Shim (thin)

(Note: these three take the place of the Pressure Plate/Flywheel in that
the bolts go through the PP and into the Flange listed below w/ the
Flywheel bolting to the PP via 9 other, smaller bolts. In the Auto these
two parts; "Something that bolts to the crank" & "Something that has
teeth for the Starter" are one plate. In the Manual they are two
different parts.)

and then what looks like the Crankshaft Flywheel Flange. (This part is
not steel but an alloy & has the Rear Main Seal in it.)

What a Manual needs is the removal of the parts 1, 2, & 3 listed above
and the addition of a Manual's Intermediate Plate. 

In a Manual the Transaxle bolts to and through the Intermediate Plate.
(It's a thin but large piece of 'tin'.)

The 64 Million Dollar Question is whether the Crankshaft Flywheel Flange
is the same for Auto vs Manual.

> so i have this carrier plate (torque converter apparently mounts to it) on
> the new block that appears to be one piece with the crank. 

Nope. It has those big bolts in the middle. (6 of them. Bentley calls
them Mounting Bolts.) Get some coat hanger and a 17 mm socket with 1/2"
drive and a Big ol' Honkin Breaker Bar. You can pass the coat hanger
through an empty bolt hole and secure it around something on the block
and use this to keep the crank from rotating & therefore get the bolts
unstuck from the crank. Use a double thickness of wire if you can
manage. 

When putting the 'new' Pressure Plate in be sure to get new bolts OR
clean the old ones and light up the threads with some Locktight. Not
only will it give piece of mind it will help avoid those oil leaks later
on down the road because the bolts' inner threads rest in the crankcase
oil on the inside.


> i couldn't put my
> old transmission cover plate onto the new block because this carrier plate
> was in the way. as a result, i don't have enough clearance for the flywheel
> when the tranny is reassembled (it hits the back of the case). i'm only
> about 1mm short, which is the approximate thickness of the cover. so i
> figure my options are: 1) somehow get that damn carrier plate off (HOW? can
> it be done w/o taking the block apart? i can't find it in etka) 2. modify my
> cover so that i can put it back on (it won't fully cover the tranny if i do
> that-->crap will get inside the case. i assume this is bad) 3. put washers
> b/t the case and the block to space it out. same probs as w/ 2 if i do that
> though.  sorry for the long email, but i've wasted 1 1/2 days on this crap,
> and i'm really really frustrated. please help! TIA,
> -michael
> 
> *i didn't buy the clutch cause i didn't know i'd have to disassemble it
> anyway. i'm going to get one now. do i have to replace the pressure plate
> too (110k miles)?
> 
> --

hth, Questions? lmk
TBerk

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