Alarms and Doorlocks - Was: factory alarms

["Bill Scarince" <scarince@gte.net>]

Foxx,

I'm going through this right now, sort of.  I just put electric lock motors
in the doors, and the stock central lock system in for the hatch and fuel
door.  I bought and installed an Excalibur security system.  It provides an
output for power locks which can be adjusted to provide a pulse signal that
is either 0.8 *or* 3.0 seconds long.  I think this is typical of many
systems.

Here are the problems you will have; If you installed the stock system, then
there is no actuator for the drivers door lock.  All you have in there is
the 2-pole switch that runs the system.  So, you'll need to either install
an electric actuator or an pneumatic actuator like the one you have on the
passenger side.  I don't know if you can get a pneumatic actuator.  You will
also probably have to remove the 2-pole switch to make room for the
actuator....I don't know if you can find a way to mount both of them inside
the door since the actuator will go into the space currently occupied by the
switch.  If you install a pneumatic actuator, you'll also need to splice
into the air circuit.  I don't know if the pump has capacity to run another
actuator.

What *I* did:
I removed the 2-pole switch from the drivers door and pulled the wiring
harness out of the door and ran it over to my alarm system "brain" which is
under my glovebox.  I cut the plug off and wired it into a pair of relays so
it can be activated like the electric actuators.  So, now my alarm system is
wired to provide the signal pulse to a set of four relays (a relay for
"lock" and "unlock" for the electric actuators *and* the bi-directional
pump).

Since I have electric actuators in the doors and the bi-directional pump in
the rear, I have a big problem.  The electric motors want a short pulse.  It
takes them about 0.5 seconds to travel up and down, so I configure the alarm
system for the short pulse. Well, the bidirectional pump can't complete it's
cycle in that amount of time.  But if I use the 3 second pulse, the door
lock motors are stalled for about 2 of those seconds.  Thats bad.

My solution:  I bought a DPDT latching relay.  This will hold the last
position w/o requiring the coil to be energized to hold it there.  It's
contacts will effectively be the schematic equivalent of the original 2-pole
switch that was mounted in the drivers door.  I'll be wiring it in this
weekend, and I'll let you know how it works from there, if you're
interested.

HTH!

Bill Scarince

----- Original Message -----
From: "Foxx (in a box)" <foxxinabox@core.com>
To: "scirocco list" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 2:42 PM
Subject: factory alarms


>   did the sciroccos come with these from the factory (especially
> considering how often they were borken into stock)? anyone know where i
> might be able to get one? i know there was a guy on r.a.m.v.w. that was
> selling new factory ones for the later model cars (maybe could splice
> and fit into a scirocco?).
>   i just recently installed the full central locking system into my car
> and was told that i could get an alarm now that would also actuate the
> locks. was the cls a requirement for an alarm, if there were alarms from
> the factory? the only reason i'm asking is b/c i'm considering putting a
> nice stereo system in my '86 and don't want to see it disappear. thanx.
>
> --
>  /\_/\   Foxx (in a box)
> < o o >   http://foxx.tripod.com
>   \ /
>    °
>
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