Re: rotors

[trnsfrma@ix.netcom.com (Shawn C. Meze)]

At 11:49 AM 3/29/97 -0700, speedyman Mannix wrote:
>Disconnecting the brake line from the caliper to change rotors is not
>necessary.  Just remove the bolts holding the caliper to the carrier, hang
>the caliper from the spring or something, R&R rotor, put caliper back on.
>Simple.


I concur. this is the easiest way to do it. 


>>What should I do?
>Save your money and get Ferodo pads, IMHO.


I completely concur! I think that Ferodo pads on stock solid rotors are WAY 
better than a stock pad and even some aftermarket pads on cross drilled 
rotors. Much more cost effective too! 


>>Should I bleed all four calipers to be safe?
>
>Not a bad idea, but not necessary if the fluid is recent - there is no good
>reason to bleed *because* of a rotor change, but if it has not been done in
>a while (more than a year), it is a good idea, just for preventative
>maintenance.


Man we think alike. Kinda scarry..... 



>>P.S. Does anyone have the Brembo rotors?  How do you like them?
>
>Brembo are of good quality, so cracking should'nt be a problem.
>Drilled(cheap) rotors are known to crack.  I don't know about the Brembos,
>if I were to get some, I'd look to them first.   IMHO, if you are
>experiencing brake fade, try Ferodo pads and Castrol GTLMA fluid first - I
>use this on my autocross car, stock 84 GTI brakes otherwise, no fade, good
>pedal, plenty of power.  I was impressed with this combination, and at
>Trials events in particular, the fade I used to have to drive around is
>gone.  I have no desire/perceived need to do anything to my brakes.  9.4"
>vented rotors.


I have found this to be a great combo as well. Its what I currently use, until 
I find something that works better. 





Shawn

(just got back from Colorado, 218 messages from you guys! Geez, ill be here 
all night........)
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