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Battery Light question
OK what I found before I made any changes was 12.35 volts at the battery but only 11.32 where the exciter wire attaches to the alt. So what I did was run a new wire from the alt. all the way back through the firewall and to the back of the fuse panel. Now I have a whopping 11.50 where the exciter wire connects to the alt. Is this good enough? Or do I need to run more wire from the fuse panel through the battery light and back to the battery? Not even sure if that's what happens going the other direction.
Ps, OT, I am bummed that I will not be able to make it to Waterwagons (big event in the PNW), cause that is the week the better half booked our trip to Yellowstone. She said I could skip the family trip to go to Waterwagons, but that is probably a trap huh?
Thanks
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: William Yeckel (Lexmark International) [mailto:b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 12:00 PM
To: Neptuno; julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Cory Langford
Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Battery Light question
Checks in the mail ;)
________________________________
From: Neptuno [mailto:neptunonc@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:47 AM
To: julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; William Yeckel (Lexmark International); Cory Langford
Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Battery Light question
......To the Church of the free electron? Payment in Beer possible....
julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
You know Bill, that after the first six months, we will require you to do a written exam on the subject of flawed wiring in 20 YO cars. There is a $50.00 charge for the test and can be made payable to....
>-----Original Message-----
>From: William Yeckel (Lexmark International) [mailto:b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 02:02 PM
>To: 'Cory Langford'
>Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: RE: Battery Light question
>
>First off Cory thanks for all the info, this list and all the helpful people on it totally rock! So to run a new wire can I just run down to the nearest Schucks and pick up the length of wire I need? Or is there a type of, or brand of wire I should be using?
>
>Thanks
>
>-Bill
>
>________________________________
>From: Cory Langford [mailto:Cory_Langford@xxxxxxx]
>Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:44 AM
>To: William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
>Cc: Neptuno; scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: RE: Battery Light question
>
>
>I have found on many of the mk1's I have owned the actual exciter wire (from the light through the harness to the alt) get old and corroded in many spots along the way. This ends up increasing the resistance of the wire and the whole system then starts to have weird issues.
>
>>From what I remember when I had this problem quite some time ago:
>
>What is supposed to happen, is when the car is started up the alt has to be energized, to do this the +12V runs through the light and then to the alt to supply the needed voltage to get it going. once the alt is running, the +12 (or more) volts that is applied from the alt end on the exciter wire leaves no ground and thus the light goes out.
>
>Unfortunately what actually ends up happening is that the wire actually increases in resistance until the +12v that is supposed to be at the alt is pulled down. (last one I had it was about 10v) (check by disconnecting the wire from the alt, turn the car on but not running and measure the voltage at the exciter wire - should be a strong +12). What then happens is the alt does not actually energize correctly and thus it needs to be rev'd to 2000+ rpm so that the diode bridge inside can start supplying the needed voltage to the internals of the alt. Then the light goes out (unless it is a really bad wire and the drop is enough to have the light glow dimly like a ghost to haunt you...)
>
>Easiest solution is to run a new wire from the light to the alt. Cheap and easy fix.
>
>I am sure some more technical people on the list will chime in with a better explanation of the system :)
>
>Cory Langford
>
>
>"William Yeckel (Lexmark International)" wrote on 16/05/2007 10:08:10 AM:
>
>> I will try to dig into the exciter wire possibility. Had the alt
>> checked out by All Star electric, and they said it was good.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> -Bill
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Neptuno [mailto:neptunonc@xxxxxxxxx]
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:24 AM
>> To: William Yeckel (Lexmark International); scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: Re: Battery Light question
>>
>> Hello Bill,
>>
>> Exciter wire disconected and the alternator is not arming itself to
>> charge the battery. Try turning the car seeing if the light is on
>> then reving it up to 2000 rpm....Does the battery light go off? Yes?
>> then it maybe a brake on that wire or it maybe loose or corroded.
>> And like always check all grounds.... Wnat about brushes on the
>> regulator? Does anyone else know if that would do it?
>>
>> HTH,
>> Tony
>>
>> "William Yeckel (Lexmark International)" wrote:
>> Just got the 1980 s-pack back on the road again after doing some
>> maintenance and trying to figure out an electrical issue which I
>> though I narrowed down to a bad battery that has been replaced. All
>> seems fine, car starts and runs fine. But there is a weird thing
>> going on with the battery light where it will be on for about the
>> first 10 minutes the car is running, then it goes off.
>>
>> Any ideas what might be going on here? Maybe some relay that does
>> not kick in until it gets warm enough?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> -Bill
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