FR Strut/ camber adjustment

[kkrup62 at hotmail.com (Karl Krupke)]

...it's not the location [as per rotation] of the bolts that's important, 
it's the fit of the strut assembly bracket onto the hub carrier. The 
eccentric bolt is just there for leverage to adjust the angle back and forth 
to set camber, and as Gordy says they're often hogged out or beat up. Don't 
use bolt position as a reference for alignment.
    Hmmm... if you were to look down on the strut/ hub carrier joint from 
Above (all say halleluyah!)... uh, the strut bracket is like a U shape with 
the open end towards the wheel. The mounting for the hub carrier slides into 
the U, and the two bolts cross the U, one above the other.
    Ok, so scribe your mark ON the metal surface of the hub carrier piece, 
using the outer edge of the strut U bracket as a guide, from top to bottom. 
Cut your thin shiny scratch as close to that edge as you can get, and use it 
as reference when you reinstall. I like to scribe top to bottom 'cuz you can 
also double-check by seeing that your scratch is evenly parallel to the 
bracket when you're done.
    That's what I've been doing; seems to work.

Karl

>From: "Gordy Stedman" <ydrogs@xxxxxxxxx>
>To: "Karl Krupke" <kkrup62@xxxxxxxxxxx>, Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: Which to buy if either/ Struts
>Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 21:14:39 -0700
>
>On 7/23/07, Karl Krupke <kkrup62@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>    Before you pull the lower (alignment) bolts, use a scratch awl to
>>scribe
>>a trace along the edge where the 'bracket' of the strut covers the upright
>>from the hub carrier, directly inboard from the bolts. If you're precise
>>with the marking and careful in reassembly, you'll be right on original
>>alignment or near 'nuff it won't matter. But if you want to be sure,
>>what's
>>an alignment cost, $35-50 or so? Much less hassle (I think) than messing
>>with (and possibly damaging) CV's, tie rod ends and ball joints.
>
>
>I have had few good and mostly bad experiences with the ball joints.  I 
>have
>tried all the tricks and I usually end up destroying the rubber boot/seal
>with a pickle fork, but they usually need to be replaced anyways.  I would
>defiantly use Karl's method of removal unless you are doing a complete 
>front
>end rebuild.
>The marking of the eccentric camber bolt works well if the bolt and washer
>are in good condition.  I have tried realigning ones where the washer was
>hogged out and had lots of slop when you spun it.  Even though I got the
>marks lined up it was out of alignment.  Get these
>http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=171498101A 
>to
>replace the stock or the ones that I have been looking at (2 at bottom of
>the page) http://www.eurosportacc.com/camber.htm seem to have a better
>design.  Then go have it aligned by a shop.  Do not get sucked into the
>expensive 4 wheel thrust alignment crap.  The rear wheels are not
>adjustable, at least at the alignment shop.  Just get a 2 wheel front
>alignment.  Also ask them to center the rack while they are down there and
>to *not* use air tools on anything.  I do not know if it gets done whitout
>asking.  Then mark the location of the bolts like Karl explained and you
>should be able to realign if necessary for a while.  If you want a quick 
>and
>easy front suspension swap the buy struts that are a complete unit and not
>the inserts.  It costs a little more but taking the original units apart 
>can
>be a large PITA.  Is your time worth the extra $100?  You make the call.
>
>--
>Gordy
>MK1 x 5

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