[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Mechanics Report on Callaway



I am going to get it shortly.

But here is the transcript of what the mechanic found.
Comments/Suggestions would be appreciated.

Check lack of boost
--check basics, and fuel pressure--25lbs cold, 52lbs hot, Main at
72PSI.  Residual 30 PSI after 10min=OK
--Cam Timing, ignition timing at 8* (degrees advanced?  retarded?)
BTD, Timing at 378 total, 27 w/no vacuum under boost.  Idle speed at
1050...Manifold vacuum is VERY low...14-15lbs.
--Boost gauge reads 9-10" (not sure what they meant here)
--Removed Turbo inlet pipe.  Turbo shaft VERY loose, will turn but
cannot spin freely.  Unable to access turbo, send out for rebuild, or
exchange turbo (without removing head)
--Internet info states that original turbo was ROTOMASTER TO4B

Engine stalls when depressing clutch
--Crankshaft moves back and forth when pushing in clutch.
--Removed oil pan, pump, and thrust bearing.  Crank Thrust Bearing is damaged.
--Could remove transaxle, clutch, crankshaft, and reweld thrust, reinstall crank
--Has JE Pistons however and balanced rods.  Do not know what stroke
is without removing cyl. head to measure.

Other
--right inner cv damaged by heat.
The other things listed I am not going to type I knew about them.

The crank if sent off to someplace called "crankgrinder" would be $170
to repair.
$100 or so in bearings and gaskets and $65 for an oil pump.

If I have them do the labor (I don't intend to) that's about $1050.  I
don't really have it and $170 and busted knuckles seems much more
reasonable.  And that's not even pricing a turbo rebuild/replace.

So my initial reaction is that isn't nearly as bad as it could be.  I
think I am going to keep that block in the car and do this myself...
and offer alot of beer to anyone in the area for an extra hand.  LOL

So the question I have is what else do I need to do?  Can this work be
done with engine in place?  Do I need to remove the head?

Thanks
Chris