Strut bearing replacement

[amalventano1 at tds.net (Allyn)]

>   If you unscrew the strut bearing's center bolt, the spring 
> will blow everything apart, so you need strut spring 
> compressors to get the bearing off without killing yourself.  

I've removed both upper bolts with the car on the ground, then jacked up from the front of the car.  Sure there is a thud sound
made, but I've never had a factory spring go flying, as long as the wheel was in place.  I've managed to replace rear factory
springs by using the cars weight to compress the spring, doing it solo even, but I needed a hand accomplishing such a feat on the
fronts, and that was with 8v springs.  16v springs would be much more difficuly (and risky).

> The exception is that if you have crappy lowering springs 
> that don't touch the top of the strut when the strut is 
> extended.  

I don't believe I've seen an aftermarket front spring that _did not_ slacken with the strut fully extended.  Basically anything more
aggressive than stock will do this, even progressive rate neuspeed softsports.  (note - rears are a different animal - even
aftermarket is usually slightly compressed at full extension).

>   I'm pretty sure it isn't practical to do this without 
> removing the whole strut.

If the bearing is all that needs to be replaced, there should be no need to remove anything beyond the center nut and both retaining
nuts from each upper tower.

>   It is easier to do the alignment yourself.  Actually, it is 
> quite easy.  I'll elaborate ad nausium, so go grab a piece of 
> pecan pie to eat while you read.  

Assuming alignment was good prior-to, there will be minimal, but some impact on alignment, due to a rise in ride height if factory
springs are kept.

> Camber is the 
> angle of the wheel relative to the ground.  Positive camber 
> is when the top of the wheel leans toward the center of the 
> car.

Bzzzzt:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle
"if the bottom of the wheel is further out than the top, it is called negative camber"

> I usually use full positive 
> camber.

See above?

> That means the bolt is moved toward the center of 
> the car in that slot it moves along in the strut, and the top 
> of the steering knuckle is leaning toward the center of the 
> car as much as possible.  

Holy crap, that is *severe* negative camber.  Note that on any lowered scirocco, adjusting to the other end of the range (strut
housing moves outward, closest to you), still results in a slightly negative camber (usually just within the factory spec, depending
on ride height).

>    Now put the wheels on and drive the car.  If it pulls to 
> the left, adjust the right-hand bolt for less positive camber 
> (i.e. move the bolt in the slot away from the center of the 
> car).  If it pulls to the right, do the oppositte.  In the 
> last two cars I did this on, the cars tracked perfectly 
> straight the first time around.  You can adjust the strut 
> without removing the wheel, but use a jackstand before you 
> crawl under the car to do so.  

Side note here, don't bother adjusting toe (if you are going to) without settling on the camber values first - as vw geometry
results in them impacting eachother.  Also, disregard where the steering wheel sits (i.e. don't try to adjust suspension to get it
to sit centered - you are adjusting for how the car wants to track, not for where the steering wheel ends up, as you will just
remove+recenter the wheel when all is said and done anyhow).

HTH
Al