replacing front main crank seal?

[jdbubb at verizon.net (Dan Bubb)]

The only way I know to get the timing pulley bolt out of the crank is to remove the oil pan and block the crank from turning with a piece of wood or something similar since the torque spec is 66 lb-ft + 1/2 turn. Maybe somebody else has a better idea.
If the bolt is a 12pt bolt then it is one of those "always replace" bolts. Probably a good idea since as Julie says, the consequences can be expensive.
PITA!
Dan


From: "Jason" <verboten@michiganvw.org>
To: "Jim Ruffi" <sciroccos@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Scirocco list" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: replacing front main crank seal?


ok, thats not too bad, as long as i dont have to pull the crank to replace
it.
its been a while since i have had the front of a 16V apart, and i am a
little nervous to be doing it, but hey thats why i have the car...because i
can work on it lol


On 5/25/06, Jim Ruffi <sciroccos@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> You have to get the crank pulley off to get to it, which is a bitch.  It's
> the same seal as the intermediate shaft and cam.
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Jason [mailto:verboten@michiganvw.org]
> >Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 9:47 AM
> >To: Scirocco list
> >Subject: replacing front main crank seal?
> >
> >
> >on a 16V does teh front main have a carrier just like the rear seal?
> >mine is leaking, and since i am doing my tensioner, i also planned on
> doing
> >the timing belt.
> >
> >and since i am doing that i decided to replace my accessory drive belts
> >also, and since i am that far in why not replace the leaking front main..
> >
> >but this is only if its easily accessable by removing pulleys and
> >possibly a
> >couple of oilpan bolts......arrrgh this thing is being a pain in the ass
> >i REALLY want to drive it to cincy next week
> >
>
>
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