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81 Clutch replacement - Crankshaft seal trouble
One end screws in and out. Screw it all the way in then install the cable
onto the pedal. Slip the loose end through the clutch lever side. Now
raise the clutch lever slightly and place your clips onto the knobby end of
the cable. releae the lever and adjust the srew thingy to only allow a
small amount of slop. I forget the exact amount.
You really should not have to raise the lever that much. But one time I
used a bungy cord up through the top to hold it up.
On 1/9/06, Edward Effinger <Eeffinger@conestogac.on.ca> wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who replied.
> I did pay $47 plus after tax for the first seal.
> I ended up getting a better discount on the 2nd seal $32 after asking as
> the fellow was about
> to charge $47 plus tax on the 2nd seal.
>
> No, I did not remove the carrier.
> I just popped the old seal over the crankshaft flywheel flange and popped
> the new one back in.
> Sure hoping there isn't a problem doing it this way.
> The first time I was tapping the seal with a piece of wood when the spring
> started to slide out.
> The 2nd time I used a tin can of the right diameter to tap the seal over
> the flange and seat it.
> Got the tranny back in, half shafts and shift linkage on, just need to
> fasten the clutch cable,
> which seems too short now.
> Any tricks the raise the clutch lever in order to engage the cable??
>
> Cheers
> Ed
>
> >>> Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> 2006-01-08 9:00:02 AM >>>
>
> OK, let's get basic...you did remove the seal carrier, and fit a new seal
> into it on the bench,
> and then install the carrier onto the engine, right?
>
> Now, to get the seal over the ass end of the crank without the spring
> popping out...
>
> First, grease the seal into place.
>
> Then, put the seal and carrier on...while you can work it on without help,
> here's a tip: take a
> thin piece of plastic, like a cut up 2 liter pop bottle, and wrap it over
> the end of the crank, a
> little cone shaped. The plastic will serve as a smooth transistion piece
> for the seal to get over
> the crank. Then slide the seal and carrier over that. Whatever you do,
> use a lot of oil.
>
> I thought I bought at least one seal in the past that had a pre-made
> plastic piece to serve the
> function described above.
>
> If the spring has merely popped out of the seal and is otherwise
> undamaged, just pop it back into
> place.
>
> You DO NOT want that spring floating around in your oil pan...ask me how I
> know.
>
> HTH
>
> Ron
>
> --- Edward Effinger <eeffinger@conestogac.on.ca> wrote:
>
> > Hi Allyn and Ron.
> >
> > Thanks for your replies.
> > You're right, the trans code is between 81-83.
> > I mistakenly thought the date was of the trans but was actually
> > the date on the flywheel.
> >
> > I've got the trans seals replaced now but just wrecked the crankshaft
> > rear seal, it was going on really nice but suddenly a section of the
> spring
> > inside the seal pushed its way to the outside.
> > There goes another $50.00
> >
> > Not sure how to prevent that from happening again at this point.??
> >
> > I also had a stripped oil pan bolt, got that drilled out and retapped
> today.
> > Ed
> >
> >
> > Ed Effinger
> > Senior Analyst
> > Computer Systems
> > Information Technology
> > Conestoga College Institute of Technology
> > and Advanced Learning
> > 519 748-5220 Ext: 3379
> > >>> Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> 01/06/06 4:49 PM >>>
> > --- Edward Effinger <Eeffinger@conestogac.on.ca> wrote:
> > > We've got a 210 mm clutch vs the stock 190 mm and are about to
> > > replace the release bearing and half shaft oil seals as well as > the
> main shaft seal.
> >
> > AFA clutch and flywheel - no biggie, just get clutch and PP for a later
> model car and they bolt
> > up. Replacing seals and release bearing is not impacted.
> >
> > > The trans case seems to be from 1986 and has the following number on
> the plate of the
> > > bellhousing FN27052.
> > > Just wondering about the origin of this part.
> >
> > FN's are older than '86. They were applied in the early 80's.
> > ETKA says '8/81 - 7/83 Jetta, 1/80 - 3/81 Rabbit, 8/81 - 7/83 Scirocco..
> >
> > Date code says 27 (day), 05 (month, May), 2 (year, has gotta be 82).
> >
> > > Also, we didn't mark the flywheel alignment before removal.
> > > How do we best recover from this?
> >
> > It won't bolt up wrong if memory serves...there are locating pins on the
> perimeter that prevent
> > this. If not...I wouldn't sweat it.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Ron
> > aka Cheapass Ron
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________
> > Yahoo! DSL * Something to write home about.
> > Just $16.99/mo. or less.
> > dsl.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________
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--
Don Walter - Waukesha, WI
1984 8V Audi 4000s (lastest addition)
1986 2.0L 16V TEC 2 Black Scirocco (see progress at
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/708939)
1986 2L 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (Ben's Car)
1988 1.8 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (sold on 3/29/04)
1984 1.8 8V Pewter Scirocco (sold years ago)
1971 Karman Ghia (sold)
1969 Karman Ghia (sold)
1969 Beetle (sold)