lowering?

[sciroccojunky at gmail.com (Lance LaPrarie)]

I had to put my two cents in. Cutting springs is always the cheap way out.
Spending time doing some research on what is good and what works. Ghetto
spring cutting is never a good thing. You're pretty much always sacrificing
something. Also a personal piece of advice. When doing suspension you should
go through and make sure that all bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends,
etc..... are all up to date and working properly. I bought a H&R cup kit and
had it installed. Thought that my ride would be like new when I had them
installed. Well, brand new shocks and springs rode like crap. I thought it
was the cup kit. Well, after spending a ton of dough fixing some deferred
maintenance it rides like new. My steering rack was leaking and really loose
working. Got all suspension components replaced with new and some new sway
bars. My car rides about as good as my M3. Steering is like new. Also don't
forget the strut bearings.

urethane bushings rock. Don't use them for motor mounts unless your racing
and gutting the interior tho. I just made that mistake. Doh!! Vibrates like
hell. They warned me it would vibrate but didn't think it would much more
than normal. I was wrong.

Anyway, that's my two cents. Happy Holidays........!!


On 12/23/06, Peter <peter@thescirocco.com> wrote:
>
> 16V Scirocco rear springs are the same way, the spring wire is tapered,
> and
> the closely spaced top and bottom coils are compressed. Progressively
> ground
> springs, is another way of obtaining a progressive ride, and is usually
> only
> found in stock rear springs.
> I've replaced a lot of stock Volkswagen suspensions, and all A1 rear
> springs
> are like that.
> The only time stock rear springs are not binding, is when the car is in
> the
> air, or if the strut assembly is removed.
>
> I installed another 16V Scirocco front spring set minus 1 coil on my '83
> VW
> Pickup, and it matches the rear leaf spring rate better, than the stock
> springs.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I don't want to be non-PC, but fuck this "Dan's error" bullshit!
> On my 84, that I bought brand new from the dealer, the rear springs were
> not
>
> only progressively wound, but the spring material was also tapered.  I
> have
> no use for stock springs so I don't have any around to measure, but the
> end
> coils were easily under 3/8" and were "dead" coils.
> Maybe the 16V's have non-tapered spring wire or a non-progressive wind
> although I doubt it.
> Maybe your car had its springs changed before you bought it.
> Since I cut the coils on my 84 about 15 years ago and realized how it
> changed the handling balance it's always been way easier to just buy
> aftermarket springs so I haven't been paying much attention to stock
> springs.
> I can guaran-fucking-tee that the next time I see a 16V with stock springs
> I'll verify your "zero coils binding" claim.
>
> All that bullshit aside, I want to make one point.
> If you cut your coils you will make the springs stiffer if you're cutting
> active coils.
> It's damn unlikely that you will change the spring rates the same
> proportion
>
> front to rear.
> To that extent you've changed the front to rear roll stiffness
> distribution
> and that will change the handling balance.
> Changing anti-sway bars on only one end of the car has the same result,
> yet
> I've seen a lot of people say you should remove the front anti-sway bar
> and
> only one person fess up to backing their car into the bushes as a result.
>
> I get a constant kick out of the Vortex "it handled great".
> The simple fact is you're not driving hard enough to notice the difference
> or you haven't hit that emergency situation that gave you just enough time
> to think how you fucked your car's handling before you lost control.
> If you're going to make changes like this at least have the sense to test
> your changes (AT THE LIMIT!! to mimic an emergency situation) in a
> scenario
> where you don't hurt you or anybody else.
> Dan
>
>
>
> From: "LEF" <rocco16@sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 8:35 AM
> Subject: Re: lowering?
>
>
> Sure seems like it should.  All I can say is that, while some coils show
> the
>
> same indication of coil-bind(clean, bare lines where the coils have come
> together at full suspension jounce), a static-state condition produces no
> coil-bind on my stock springs.
>
> I pointed this out, not to emphasize Dan's error, but as a way of saying
> to the listers who might take everything they see on this list as gospel,
> "That's not always true; and here's why I say that."   Ofttimes, I don't
> couch my comments in ways that are PC.  You all should be used to that by
> now.....and realize that it's not a personal attack.
>
> larry
> sandiego16v
>    Seems like the end of a MkII
> should be enough weight to make create that situation.
> _______________________________________________
> Scirocco-l mailing list
> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Scirocco-l mailing list
> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Scirocco-l mailing list
> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
>