3 shift linkage upgrades, my installation/driving impressions (long)

[slash2 at mindspring.com (slash2@mindspring.com)]

As true as this is, the problem with the stock setup is over time(which really doesn't take long at all) the tolerances become great enough to fell sloppy.  A spherical has absolutely no play, and will not have to be replaced to get the "feeling" back.  

I've played around with other scirocco shifters at cincy that have been in different states of repair and use, and they don't have the directness of what I've made.  Even with old bushings, the heim joints make up for alot.





-----Original Message-----
>From: LEF <rocco16@sbcglobal.net>
>Sent: Aug 9, 2006 10:32 PM
>To: Ben <vwtype53@yahoo.com>, roccit_53@scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca, scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Re: 3 shift linkage upgrades,	my installation/driving impressions (long)
>
>Spherical rod end linkage is very little improvement over new stock plastic ball-in-socket pivots, since there is little/no play in the stock setup.
>  
>The biggest improvement in the shift linkage comes from putting solid, low-tolerance bushings everywhere you can replace the stock polyurethane units, which quickly go south from oil/heat.
>
>I put the complete MissingLinkz kit on mine (minus the weighted link) and found the above to be true.
>
>larry
>sandiego16v
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Ben 
>  To: roccit_53@scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca ; scirocco-l@scirocco.org 
>  Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 9:36 AM
>  Subject: Re: 3 shift linkage upgrades,my installation/driving impressions (long)
>
>
>  This sounds great Cathy... I've been wanting to upgrade the shift linkage in my Mk1 again and
>  could use some advice.  Sounds like the 'Scott Rose' setup was the best... maybe Scott could tell
>  us some more about this setup... I recall hearing about it, but never heard the details.
>
>  You might have to take some pictures for us... or better yet I'll just crawl under your car in a
>  few weeks at track day north.  ;)
>
>  Thanks for your report!
>
>  Ben
>
>
>
>  --- C Boyko <roccit_53@scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca> wrote:
>
>  > DISCLAIMER: This is just opinion, nothing else. But for those thinking of 
>  > building linkage parts, or buying an aftermarket setup, it may be helpful.
>  > 
>  > So...I've been mucking with linkages on three A1s in the past few days,
>  > I'll give before and after impressions.
>  > Before: 
>  > 1987 16V: This car had the linkage upgraded five years or so ago, with
>  > fresh bushings and a TT short shift kit. It's never shifted nicely, though
>  > I've spent more than my share of time undoing that clamp and adjusting the
>  > rotation of the shift rod. The bearing on this rod was tired, so replacing
>  > it was needed. Lots of left/right play on the gear shifter (like 1-2"?).
>  > 1979 MkI: This car always shifted really well, so why not mess with it? I'd
>  > say it was about as good as you could get for stock.
>  > 1988 Cabby: I'd installed the majority of a bushing rebuild kit a year ago,
>  > and it was still really floppy at the stick. Like 2" of side to side play.
>  > More inspection revealed that the shift rod bearing was looking like any 20
>  > year old rubber would when it lives beside the exhaust. Fragmented, even.
>  > 
>  > So, the upgrades: (using Bentley terminology)
>  > 1987 16V: It got the Scott Rose linkage, which requires sending in a core.
>  > Position of the joint on the selector shaft lever (the bent flat piece on
>  > the tranny) is lower than the stock position, and the other two selector
>  > rods come already attached to the L shaped relay lever. Also, the rear
>  > selector rod is lacking the kink that you'd find in the stock one.
>  > 
>  > Anyway, as always, working under the 16V is a greasebath, but it all went
>  > in fine, I did need to add a few bushings, so it's wise to have a normal
>  > linkage rebuild kit on hand. This setup is totally solid, with (sp?) heim
>  > joints that bolt though the various holes on linkage parts. It's also
>  > completely adjustable, I set it up with lengths similar to what was in
>  > there (and I think I need to skightly lengthen the back one). I also
>  > replaced the shift rod bearing with the high density urethane one from
>  > Missing Linkz/4 crawler. It requires removal of the bracket, but it was
>  > super easy to do. Adjustment with a cassette case to measure shift finger
>  > clearance worked well, and the first drive was good enough to leave alone.
>  > Second gear is a bit tough to find in rapid shifting, so it will get
>  > adjusted today. In combination with the TT short shsift kit set up on
>  > "shortest", it's such a short distance to reach the gears that you can't
>  > believe it's actually in gear. It takes one drive to get used to. The only
>  > two drawbacks are cost, and the fact that you need to get under the car to
>  > adjust it, as the selector rod ends are not "snap on/off". I can live with
>  > that :) It is the most solid feeling of these three, and has finally cured
>  > what ailed this car's shifting.
>  > 
>  > 1979 8V: Klausie gets the less expensive version of everything, it seems,
>  > and he got the Missing Linkz/4 Crawler selector rods and their short shift
>  > add-on. This last bit would be easy to fab up, or you could simply weld a
>  > chunk of metal on there, but it wasn't huge money, and I knew I'd never get
>  > around to it otherwise. They suggest not putting it at full short right off
>  > the bat, but what's the point of that? For this whole installation/adjustment, I never lifted
>  > the car, how's that for lazy? This setup has joints which are "pop-on/off" deals, and threads on
>  > the rod ends for adjustability. I adjusted it to the same lengths as what was there, with the
>  > short shift part at full short, and went for a drive. I was missing 1/2 gears entirely. This
>  > would normally mean crawling under the car, but a significant legthening of the rear selector
>  > rod found them for me, again, done from topside. For the money, this is a nice upgrade, shifting
>  > is firmer and shorter, more positive, and I really like it! (not as firm/short as the Scott Rose
>  > one, but less money too eh?) This car got no additional bushings. The only downside is that the
>  > engine is friggin hot on the arms when you're adjusting it :)
>  > 
>  > I'm wondering if replacing just the top connecting link (the one with the
>  > pins through it) would do quite a bit to clean up shifting.
>  > 
>  > 1988 Cabby: I replaced the shift rod bearing with the Missing Linkz
>  > urethane one, and I noticed that the relay lever (that L shaped thing with
>  > the balls on it) was wobbly, the bushings in it were shot, so they got
>  > replaced. The slop is somewhat better, but there's still somthing floppy
>  > here. It finds gears okay, so for now, it'll stay as is.
>  > 
>  > The summary?
>  > 1987 16V: TT short shifter, new bushings/bearings/Scott Rose setup =
>  > goodest :O
>  > 
>  > 1979 8V: stock with Missing Linkz short shift attachment and "solid"
>  > linkage = still pretty damn good :D
>  > 
>  > 1988 cabby with new bushings/bearings = good enough... :)
>  > 
>  > Oh, I have pictures of the various bits....
>  > 
>  > Cathy
>  > 
>  > 
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