2.0l

[rfkellner at snet.net (RICHARD F KELLNER)]

Also, a stud removal tool, available at Sears, works well.
Rick.

Julie Macfarlane <juliemac57@hotmail.com> wrote:
Soak the stud in PB blaster or Kroil then apply heat. LOTS to just the stud. 
The head causes the bolt to expand faster than the head (alum) then really 
clamp down with a good set of vice grips. That should do the job.

If you use a hoist remember to fit the DS first, the 5th gear housing will 
be a pain other wise (experienced that my self :)

Removing the head will cost about $100.00 just in bolts and gaskets. Leave 
it on!

Julie Macfarlane
"Its not just a car! Its an adventure!"
1981 MKI 2L 16v w 2Y
Amsterdam NY




>From: "Chad Eatock" 
>To: "Jeff Toomasson" 
>CC: Sciroccolist 
>Subject: Re: 2.0l
>Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 01:18:24 -0400
>
>The fractured stud is the one off the exhaust manifold...it snapped about
>1/4 inch above the block I tried the grips bit just wouldn't go...I'll soak
>it down for sure.....I will most likely just put this sucker in I
>guess...I'm just tripped out that it is going to be a different car after
>this!!
>Machine shop for broken studs sounds good I guess....
> does anybody know where I can get an engine hoist and stand for cheap
>here in Canada?
>I can't move my motor around without asking for help and people are 
>annoyed!
>lol
>Thanks
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jeff Toomasson" 
>To: "Chad Eatock" 
>Cc: "Sciroccolist" 
>Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 1:03 AM
>Subject: Re: 2.0l
>
>
> > Ease up, grass-hoppah. You need to better articulate what you're trying
> > to portray here. I guarantee you'll get a lot better response if you
> > take the time to explain your questions in more detail.
> >
> > 1) How deep is the fracture of the stud? Another question is WHICH ONE
> > is it? Pix help considerably. You're talking about head-related stuff
> > then jumped to a stripped stud in the block? Again, more details....
> >
> > Can you get on it w/ a vise-grip, or is it beneath the surface?
> > Otherwise, you'd most likely have to drill out the old stud and re-tap
> > the hole (MUCH better, imho, to pay a machine shop for this activity
> > especially if the engine's out.) If you can get on it, hose it down w/
> > PB Blaster and let it sit for 24 hours. Should do the trick.
> >
> > 2) taking the head off just to clean "deposits" is not worth the time,
> > effort, $$....now, if you're taking the head off to replace/recondition
> > something specific, then it becomes a question of your available time
> > and money because if the engine was supposedly fine before, why would
> > you take it apart? (unless you're anal like many of us (but being anal
> > costs $$$ :)
> >
> > Hope that helps - Jeff
> >
> > Chad Eatock wrote:
> >
> > >Ok...got the 2.0l pretty much stripped except for the pulleys for the
>timing belt, water pump etc...the head on this engine is considerably newer
>looking than the block and seems to be rebuilt maybe? the intake manifold
>is off, the exhaust manifold is off but there are a few studs still in the
>block and one snapped in the block too....(what do I have to do for that?
>drill, tap?)
> > >Looking into the intake of the head you can see black deposits and
>such...is this normal? should I take the head and everything off? there is
>no leaking from the valve cover and the engine was tested ok...is it just a
>matter of switching over everything from the 1.8l?
> > >I dunno...many more redundant questions are inevitable from me as I am 
>a
>rookie here!! lol
> > >Chadster16v
> > >_______________________________________________
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> > >Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > >http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
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