dropping the block pt2

[sad_rocc at yahoo.com (Dan Smith)]

First, the motor is junk, otherwise I wouldn't even consider taking off the pan. Since it's going to be disposed of, I figured removing the pan would give me a bit more clearance to pull the motor out. 
 
For supporting the motor, I'll probably try to work up a brace like many others here have ton. It's tempting to just unbolt and let the thing go thunk on the ground, but I'm afraid that would put serious stress on the last couple of bolts.

Clutch cable seems minor enough to do, check. Speedo cable, good call, I forgot about that one.
 
I've been bagging stuff to keep and I've marked most wires to where they're supposed to go so hopefully the reinstall should go well enough. The new block unfortunately is yellow. While I know this is good for at least 25hp more (hey, if a sticker is 5, a block has to be at least 25), I think it's going to get a repaint.
 
The car is jacked up pretty high at the moment and the head is removed, so with the oil pan off I don't think there will be any problem with spacing. I didn't mess with the axles at all, just undid the CVs from the tranny. I was planning on sticking a baggie and rubber banding it over the exposed end to keep crap out. I assume it's safe to wheel the car around that way? Thanks for all the info!
 
Dan

T Berk <tberk@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Just want to double check some stuff. 
> It looks like the only thing holding 
> the engine and tranny in are the CV 
> joints and motor mounts. 
> 
OK, so far so good.

> I disconnected the CV joints and have 
> loosened the motor mount bolts. 
> 
This is good, how are you going to support the motor during lowering?


> Next I plan on removing the oil pan 
> and possibly oil pump, 
> 
WHY? You will needlessly expose yourself to an oily crank and risk 
damaging it. Leave the pan in place. Least of all it'll keep the dust 
and dirt out of the insides, and provide something to interface with 
the hard cruel world.

> figuring out how to disconnect the 
> clutch cable 
>
See recent thread re: Clutch Adjustment; loosen locknut, spin plastic 
mushroom shaped end up into sheath, this provides some slack, unhook 
end of cable via slide out bracket plate.

btw- It's a really good idea to put all these parts grouped up in zip 
lock baggies. A sharpie can mark these baggies to help identify them 
later.

> and sticking some 4x4s 
> or a shipping pallet under the car 
> to support the motor. 
> 
That's not a bad idea BUT lets consider: the motor is kinda tall. 
You'll need to raise the chassis to get it out from under. Be careful.

Also, this means what ever you drop the motor onto will play into how 
you get the thing to clear the front valance upon removal.

If it's really thick you might have problems. (You can always tip a 
tall block half by half up onto something after you get it out.)

One more thing; if you roll the car with the axles unbound from the 
hubs (axle nut off/loose) you will wreck your front wheel bearings. 
Make sure they're tight, you can 'float' the inner axles with rope or 
coat hangers to keep them from dragging.

> Sound good?
> 
Sounds Good.

> So, just motor mounts to be undone 
> and out comes the block/tranny? 
>
Well, have you removed the SPEEDOMETER Cable yet? It's held in via a 
large size Phillips screw. Don't get hung up via said cable, like so 
many have. ;]

> And to think, I swapped my first 
> alternator by myself only a year ago.
> 
> Dan
> 
Yer on a role buddy, keep it up.

hth,
TBerk

		
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