Auto-adjust clutch cable help - Solved!

[camron at worldaccessnet.com (Camron D. Crouse)]

Euroroc II wrote:

> Cable goes over the boot... There is a hold down clamp off the TB to 
> secure it. There is also a metal bracket that bolts to the tranny that 
> supports the body of the adjuster... if you had a manual cable you'll 
> need to source on of these. The rubber block that fits into the 
> release lever is also different between the manual and auto cable. You 
> will need the thinner version if the one you have is approx 3/4" thick.
>
> -Raffi
>
>
> At 03:09 PM 5/10/2004, Camron D. Crouse wrote:
>
>> So I sprung for the auto-adjuster.  I got the broken old 
>> manually-adjustable cable out pretty easy.
>>
>> I'm outside in a light rain trying to get the new bugger in, but
>>
>> A. The black outer sleeve seems about 4 inches too long to fit under 
>> the intake boot (and I have not yet released the spring retaining 
>> straps), and
>> B. The inner cable seems to be just about 1 inch or less too short to 
>> feed it through the transaxle lever to secure it with the metal 
>> retainers.  I might be able to jockey it in... or is there a clutch 
>> pedal adjustment that could get me another inch or so of cable at the 
>> bottom?
>>
>> I have a 9A 2.0L 16V and a standard 16V AGB 020 tranny ( I believe 
>> this came with the donor engine, the date code is like 89, I think) 
>> on an 86.5 Roc 16V
>>
>> Is this why the Bentley says these two cables are not interchangeable?
>> Should I have gone for the manual cable for this reason?  Sounded 
>> from the list that they both fit...
>>
>> Oh, and yes, the firewall end of the cable under the hood is firmly 
>> tapped into the recepticle all the way.
>>
>> Fast replies appreciated!
>>
>>

Thank you for the inside info.  I did mange to get everything put back 
together, though I went _under_ the intake boot, then wonkied around 
over the driver's side of the coolant expansion tank (hope the outer 
sleeve is heat resistant!).  I manged  to secure the bottom by popping 
out the clutch pedal stopper, giving me another 1/2" or so of cable to 
work with, slipping the metal hardware onto the "tall" rubber block.  I 
guess I'll get my parts guy to order me the thinner version, and I'll 
put the cable back over the top of the intake boot, I suppose.

Well, I noticed my clutch engages much, much sooner (2-3" or so of pedal 
depression instead of down near the floor), so the thinner rubber 
stopper may help.  Clutch actuation is smoother than before, though it 
is at least as stiff.  It will take some getting used to.

- Camron from Vancouver, WA USA
  '86.5 Black 16V 2.0L