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soldering 4 ga copper wire?
Ah, I see the subject line this time... Yes, I still think soldering is the
way... A butane torch, and lots of solder w/flux will do it. Done that as
well... As for the crimp, if it is a factory crimp, sure. They have machines
that crimp that sucker with an ungodly amount of force. It would be very
difficult for dirt/water to get into a factory crimp... A crimp that you can
achieve at home would not be as fool-proof as the factory, IMHO...
David Utley
Quoting Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com>:
> Crimping is actually fine. The way I look at it, there are millions upon
> millions of cars out
> there running right now, with tons of miles on them, with crimps on the +12V
> and ground cables. I
> aply a little silicone grease before I crimp. Also, I don't think solder
> will be easy at all. If
> you insist, you might try to crimp and then solder using a torch. Have a few
> lengths of heat
> shrink tube slipped over the cable to cover the end where you'll most likely
> burn some insulation.
>
> AFA ground points, I agress those studs are great, but I've used a tranny
> case bolt and a tranny
> mount bolt with no problems. You might try an intake mani stud if it's a 16V
> (on 8Vs, it's too
> close to the exh. mani).
>
> Ron
>
> --- "T. Reed" <treed2@wsu.edu> wrote:
> > So I'm redoing my grounds.. and this time I'm determined to solder instead
> > of crimp. Particularly after the no-starting fiasco I went through in
> > weeks past.
> >
> > Any tips on how to go about this? Obviously my little 25w iron isn't going
> > to cut it. I'm afraid a propane torch will just burn off the insulation..
> >
> > -Toby
> >
> > Also I'm looking for a good ground point. My lower starter bolt has proven
> > to be a crappy one at best. I'd like to nab one of those A2
> > engine-to-tranny bolts that has the small stud protruding from the
> > bolt head designed specifically for this purpose, but the junkyards
> > around here are worth their weight in honduhs so I haven't had luck
> > finding one.
> >
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David Utley
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