2.0l block

[ceatock at sympatico.ca (Chad Eatock)]

Hey Toby thanks man!
Great to have such a great response to my inquiries.....keep in touch with
me...I guess the motronic swap can always be done right?  So I think I'll
stay on track with the present thought train!!
I guess "weak" was a bad description of whats going on.....at start up my
engine boggs down a bit...not stalling but boggy....but only for the first
release of the clutch into 1st......after I feather the gas pedal to
increase fuel it pipes up and goes to operating rpms and then I shift to
2nd....after that its ok.  I dunno...kinda wierd....I  checked out my
ignition system with my multimeter and everything seems to be within the
guidelines of the Bentley's suggested operating ohmage (coil, knock sensor
etc)  I hear a rattling type of noise coming from the engine compartment
when I accelerate around 3200 -4000 rpm's...I dunno what it is as it doesn't
rattle when the car is stationary and I rev it up....perhaps it is a
downpipe flange rattling as I had to throw a weld across the connection as
it had cracked (great more $$$!!)
Also Toby, the rocc rattles annoyingly, and has ever since I got it....I
changed all the mounts (except driver side which is tight and solid as hell)
and still the annoying rattle as it idles @ 1000 rpms....I put a little
throttle up to 1500 to 2000 and the rattle stops....do the mounts need to be
readjusted?  Is the idle not right?  These are things that I think I'll have
to pay someone to do as I am not doing anything with those motor mounts
anymore!!!  PITA!
Well any insight is appreciated as I am trying to get the rocco in a
respectable operating condition to thwart away all these people who keep
telling me to get rid of the "junker" and get a "new" car.
Chadster '87 16v
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "T. Reed" <treed2@wsu.edu>
To: "Chad Eatock" <ceatock@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: 2.0l block


> > Thanks Toby,
>
> No prob! The list is a great way to ask questions and learn. I sure have
> gained a lot from it in the 5 or so years since I joined.
>
> > I am going to keep my 1.8l in as good of running order as possible but I
am
> > looking for a swithup as my engine is a little weak....I can still use
my
>
> Hmm. How is it weak? You might want to look in to that because more
> likely than not it's a problem with the fuel or ignition systems rather
> than the engine itself. It's actually rather rare to have mechanical (I'm
> talking solely about the block, pistons, rings, etc) problems unless the
> car has been abused, i.e. driven without oil).
>
> If you replace the engine and it's not really the problem, then you just
> spent a lot of money without resolving the problem.
>
> Post some details of what's going on with your motor and chances are
> someone will be able to identify the possible causes of your symptoms and
> tell you how to fix them.
>
> > 16v head on the 9A right?  Would there be any advantages in getting a
2.0l
>
> Yes, the 1.8l head bolts right up. The only thing you have to do is tap
> out a small dowel pin on the surface of the block with a hammer so that
> the head will sit flat.
>
> > engine in it's entirety?  I have really been thinking that I want to use
>
> The only procedural "advantage" would be that you wouldn't have to
> seperate the block and head at all. Personally I would want to take a look
> at things and make sure the engine is good before going to all the work of
> installing the motor. But if you're not comfortable with the crucial
> matters of head bolts and gaskets, it could be a better idea to get the
> whole motor. Up to you, but if you do you'll have to swap sensors between
> the two heads, too.
>
> Also, the 2.0l head has different intake and exhaust flow characteristics.
> You will get more low end power with the 2.0 head, but slightly more total
> power with the 1.8 head. Most people opt for the 1.8, unless they plan to
> port the head.. in which case the 2.0 head has a little more room around
> the oil passages and water jackets for porting.
>
> I already owned a 1.8 head (came with the motor, heh!) so I opted to keep
> it and just bolt it up to the 2.0 block. Cheaper that way..
>
> > just the 9A block with my current CIS-E and 16v 1.8l head.....as this
seems
> > to be the best bang for the buck and the simplest conversion.  Again,
>
> Yes, this is the cheapest, easiest route. The only problem is that
> CIS-E tends to lean out a bit at the higher rpms with higher fueling
> demands of the 2.0 motor, so you don't get as much high rpm power (or you
> richen the mixture and get less low end power.. either way you
> compromise)
>
> The best solution to this problem is to get an autotech fuel module (I
> just obtained one a few months ago but haven't installed it yet) which is
> rpm-activated and thus doesn't affect your mixture until you get above a
> certain rpm and are at full throttle.
>
> Another option is to swap in the motronic system from the 2.0 motor as
> well.. you get about 10 hp more out of the engine if you do a motronic
> swap, but it costs about $800-$1000 to do the swap properly. Not a very
> good price to performance ratio, if you ask me :)
>
> It can be done cheaper, but you have to make sure all the sensors and
> other goodies are in perfect shape or you're wasting your time and money.
> The main expense if you got the whole Motronic system for free would be
> the adapters needed to move it over to the driver side of the engine bay.
> (ie. keep everything the way it is now) which go for ~$25 per injector.
>
> You can move everything to the other side and avoid using the adapters but
> you probably need a spot welder and other junk for all the brackets to get
> moved over properly. Again, a lot of work and expense for not a lot of
> gain.
>
>
> ...
>
> I think you're on the right track with the PL head + 9A block + CIS-E
> route.
>
> I've modified my car quite a bit and the 2.0l motor made the biggest
> difference. After that I'd say the 4K tranny, then the euro intake cam,
> then the lightened flywheel. In the suspension arena, the Bilstein and H&R
> combo was no doubt the best thing I've done for my car's handling. Ferodo
> pads will give you some kickass braking too, BTW. Though they are dusty!!
>
> HTH
>
> -Toby
>
>
> > thanks!
> > Chadster '87 16v
>