Tightening head bolts on engine stand?

[treed2 at wsu.edu (T. Reed)]

Have to agree with their preference.

The clicker type always seem to click AFTER the bolt breaks. And if you
leave them sitting without returning the dial to the zero position they
get out of calibration.

The pointer type shows you exactly what you're putting on the bolt as its
happening. It's "analog" and the clicker type is "digital".

Heh, I'm a nerd.

-Toby

On Tue, 3 Feb 2004, chris gonzalez wrote:

> Ah, yes I was using raceware studs/fasteners on my diesel. Make sure you chase the threads and blow out the bolt holes, or your torque readings will be different for each bolt. Oh, and raceware themselves recommend using the beam type torque wrench vs. click or dial torque wrenches. They went as far as to say they recommend NOT using click or dial wrenches.
>
>
> Jeff Toomasson <jtoomasson@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My worry was whether lifting with the stretch bolts partially torqued would
> damage them any...
>
> The 180' turn comes directly from the Bentley and only applies to stretch
> bolts (which BTW should be done with the breaker bar and NOT the torque
> wrench! :) IIRC, Diesels use head studs because of the ultra high
> compression. Gas engines using studs like ARP or Raceware need to be
> retorqued too...
>
> JT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "chris gonzalez"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 9:34 AM
> Subject: Re: Tightening head bolts on engine stand?
>
>
> > just snug them to 20lbs and torque it in the car.but 180? where did the
> extra half turn come from? I just did the head gasket on my diesel and the
> process was 20lbs, 40lbs, 50lbs, warm up the car then retorque to 50lbs. 180
> degrees more would have been more like 80lbs of torque.
> >
> >
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