Wiring Harness Removal [ATTN: Mark F.]

[mk1mark at gmail.com (Mark F.)]

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 11:11:46 -0500, GGehrke <ggehrke@gmail.com> wrote:
> > You mention that you're thinking of using it with EFI in the future.
> > Have you given much thought to adding EFI to an existing Painless
> > harness install?


Shouldn't be too difficult.  Engine management circuits are totally
separate from the fuse block - other than tapping off it for power
(which you don't even HAVE to do) and an ignition "on" signal.  If you
plan to use Megasquirt in the future, you can use the MS relay board
to control your fuel pump.  You can basically divide the electrical
chores into two "chunks" - the Painless stuff taking care of all the
lights, wipers, radio, etc., and the engine management stuff on it's
own circuit(s)...

   
> > I'm going to try to get a new harness this week, but
> > everything I'm doing to my car right now I'm doing so that it won't
> > have to be redone later, that is, I don't want to install a harness
> > and then later add megasquirt and have to redo the entire wiring job.
> > I've got just a huge mess of wires right now and nothing is working,
> > so I figure this is a better way to go.


Just make sure you label the crap out of everything so you can easily
identify the wires in the future.  I believe Painless harnesses use
wires that are each labeled with their particular "job".  If you want
to be real slick you can install all the wire now that you'll need
later when you install Megasquirt (or whatever), and just bury it for
now.  This may be the way to go for you, as it'll be easier to route
all the wires once, and it'll probably be a much neater install in the
end...



> > Since you bought the kit without wiring, did it give you instructions
> > on what gauges and whatnot to use?


I'd recommend buying the harness from Painless.  If not, you can go
through the Bentley and copy what gauge wire the factory used for each
circuit.  OR, just go 14gauge for pretty much everything (other than
main battery, headlight, and starter circuit).  That'll be overkill
for most circuits though...


> > Do you have any extra or any fewer electronic goodies in the car (i.e.
> > stereo equipment, power windows, etc)?  Do you have any unused
> > circuits or could you have used more?


The 12 circuit kit is more than enough for my car - since it's a track
car.  If you have power windows and door locks, etc. then get the 18
circuit fuse block and you shouldn't run out of circuits even if you
add all kinds of stuff in the future (NO NEON, or you'll be banished
from the list!  :D)


> > How does it work as far as relays go?  What sort of hidden expenses
> > should I expect in that regard?  How about with the gauges/ignition?
> > It seems they always assume you've got a GM, so what was involved with
> > that conversion?


Well the Painless fuse blocks will handle up to 30amps per circuit, so
even for the rad fan circuit it isn't necessary to add an additional
relay...  I'd still relay the headlight circuits though (near the
lights, to minimize "hot" wire length for maximum brightness)...  As
for converting the harness from the GM style connectors (ignition
switch, turn signals, etc) - you can either splice in the new wiring
close to your existing connectors, or try and source new "bullets"
that are inside the stock VW connectors.  Depends on how thorough of a
rewiring job you want to do...

HTH,

Mark.
75
80 S
81 Caddy
90 Audi Coupe Quattro - 10vt