brakes need replacement

[tberk at sbcglobal.net (T Berk)]

Jacob Hawes wrote:
> I found a possible buyer the "the... ford" and if all goes well I will 
> be driving the rocco. Before I start driving it regularly though, it 
> needs new brakes. The current ones are mushy and simply need to be 
> replaced. The question is what all should I replace and with what brand? 
> I am on a limited budget and this is not a performance car by any means.
> 
> I figure I could just replace the pads on all four wheels and that would 
> do it but I learned most of my car maintenance from my dad who is cheap 
> and hasn't taken care of a car in years. Well that is with the exception 
> of reading what you guys say, but there is only so much you can learn 
> from reading.
> 


Now keep in mind mushy brakes are sometime due to bad fluid that has 
air/water in it. Also a worn Master Cylinder can cause the pedal to be 
mushy. The 1st thing to consider doing is flushing out all the old fluid 
(which was changed When?) for some good fresh clean DOT4 stuff. You can 
use the new synthetic fluid but never use Silicon fluid, they are not 
the same thing.

A word of caution, brakes are the most important thing on the car beside 
having a wheel fall off at speed. Be careful, be clean, and be informed.

Number One is planned flushing out of the old stuff, but you don't want 
to wreck the seals in the M/C while having that lovely assistant bury 
the pedal and hold, pump, pump, and hold type stuff- this causes the 
older M/Cs to expose normally unused portions of the bore to the seals 
which promptly scrape themselves to shreds.

Better would be to pump like you are doing normal braking OR even better 
is to get a hold of (if even just a borrow) one of those Vacuum or 
Pressure Brake Bleeders. Really Groovy- Here's an example:
<http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=T%2EBleeder> 


That's the Pressure (or PUSH) kind, there is also what's been called the 
One Man Bleeder (it's, of course conversely a PULL) type unit. It clamps 
on the brake caliper's nipple and, uh........ oh. Sorry, Got distracted 
there for a min.  8])


OK, ok? Here is some stuff you want. I have not gone all out in 
recommending James Bond Race Car stuff with gold edging and diamond 
bearing points, yet neither did I want to spec the bare minimum you need 
to get by on. Also keep in mind it can be purchased on the piece basis 
so the total amount shouldn't shock the wallet all at once.

Good Brake Fluid is relative cheap so if you still have some meat on 
your pads I would start stockpiling the hardware and do a fluid purge as 
a minimum.


Buy this stuff:

Front Rotors 9.4 Vented ATE Power Disc/Ferodo Pad Kit*
<http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=9%2E4PD%2FFerodo>

Rear Drums
<http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=559>

Rear Drum Brake Spring Kit - (Get this. Just do it.)
http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=171698545

A1/A2 Stainless Steel Brake Line Set (for cars w/ rear drums).**
<http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=SBL%2DM24>


ATE DOT4 Brake Fluid(s) - one is Blue, the other Gold.***
You don't need both at once.
http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=BF1200
http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=BF1SB

Castrol makes some good stuff too.


If it turns out you have rear Disk brakes then the part numbers will 
change some.

If you open up the rear drums you might as well:

a) Clean ALL the old bearing grease out and repack them with NEW grease. 
Don't mix old and new greases, never do it. &

b) Install that Spring Kit. (Just do it.) You pull both drums off but 
only disassemble one side at a time, this lets you go back and forth 
while having the one for reference.

btw- Redline makes some really groovy Synthetic Bearing Grease.****

hth,
TBerk



* ATE is an OEM for VW.
** The old rubber lines might server a while longer but these are the 
cat's PJs.
*** So you know you have done a complete job during a brake fluid flush, 
your done when all the other color is gone.
****Red Line Synthetic CV-2 Grease possesses a very high melting point, 
excellent water washout resistance and superior antiwear which makes it 
excellent for high-temperatures and extreme loads. CV-2 contains an 
organic moly and is for wheel bearings, high-angle and conventional 
CV-joints, chassis lubrication and high-temperature, high-speed 
industrial equipment.