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Shit...broken manifold stud
David Utley wrote:
>
>
>> I have read on ford-trucks.com where someone likes to heat the part
>> a little and then light a candle and drip candle wax on it.
>> Apparently the wax follows the threads in also and loosens things
>> right up. Those guys should know, they keep their trucks for 400k
>> miles sometimes.
>>
>
>
> That is VERY interesting. I have to try that... I could see how it
> works...
It works GREAT! Before I got laid off at the automotive machine shop I
was working at I was often the "lucky one" who got to remove studs that
customers had busted off. I got LOTS of practice, and it was actually
pretty rare that I had to resort to drilling a stud out.
If the stud is broken off above the surface I'd heat the surrounding
area with an oxy/acc torch (to a dull glow), trying to minimize heat on
the stud itself (you want the "hole" to expand, not the stud). Do this
quickly, and then rest a paraffin wax candle on the area for a few
seconds until it melts and gets sucked into the threads. Quickly get a
vise grip on the stud and slowly work it back and forth until it frees
up. If you only try turning it out you'll probably twist the stud right
off - the back and forth method works better to "break" the rust bond.
Just go easy... It may require more than one application of heat
(especially if you don't work fast enough, and the stud tightens up
again). A propane torch isn't the best tool here, since it'll take too
long to heat the area (and it's not as "focused"), and you'll end up
heating the stud as well. If that's all you have, then it still may
help more than no heat at all though...
For studs broken flush or under the surface the first thing I would try
is to build up the stud a bit with the welder (if needed) before welding
a washer to it. Then I'd weld an old nut to the washer. Hit the area
with a candle, and then work it back and forth with an impact gun (with
a regulator on the air line turned WAY down, so the impact is VERY VERY
soft - a wrench will work fine if you don't have an impact or
regulator). The heat from welding is usually enough.
My boss didn't believe in penetrating oil, or anything since it "takes
too long", and burns like crazy when you torch the area. Wax, heat, and
force are all that he used. At home, where you can let penetrating oil
work overnight, or with several applications, it's worth trying
though... (my favorite is Thrust - made by Castle, awesome stuff - it
"foams" so it sticks...) If I know I have to remove some rusty nuts
I'll sometimes hit the area with Thrust everyday for a week...
Actually, that reminds me, I have to swap a TT race DP in my latest
acquisition - I better hit that up...
Later,
Mark.
75
77
80 S
81 S x3
81 Caddy