Need some tranny rebuild ?'s addressed (Help Ron??)

[tim at unrealexpectations.ath.cx (stetson)]

Yet again I show my inate ability to be obtuse.

Pertinent and (hopefully) more specific info/questions (But of COURSE!)
sprinkled throughout w/ liberal snippage:

Impartial, adj.:
	Unable to perceive any promise of personal advantage from
	espousing either side of a controversy or adopting either of two
	conflicting opinions.
		-- Ambrose Bierce, "The Devil's Dictionary"

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004, Dan Bubb wrote:

<snip>
> > 1.) So I REALLY need to worry about changing out the S3 shim and the
> > roller bearing race? Is there a less specialty tool intensive (Re: the
> > VW294b/3 - VW387 - VW385/17 measuring tool combo) way to check the S3 shim
> > suitability? I see the shim thicknesses range from 0.65mm to 1.40mm.
>
> I presume you are replacing the pinion shaft bearings? If not just reassemble. If you are then the
> two easiest ways to remove the bearing race pressed into the bell housing side of the case are:
> 1. Put it face down in an oven and heat it to 400 degrees.
> 2. Make a special fitting for a slide hammer by heating, forming and grinding one of the regular
> "claws".
>
> The third way (that I did once in 1982 and will never stoop to again) is to take the case and pinion
> shaft to the dealer and have them set it up.
>
> Were you interested in the Dan Bubb special technique for measuring bearing clearance?

Actually, the pinion shaft bearings are in fine shape as far as I can
tell, but should be replaced if I can?
I mean, of course I don't WANT to but if I should while I'm here I might
as well shuffle a little closer to the poor house and purchase new.

But the patented "Dan Bubb special technique" of bearing clearance
measurement would be MOST appreciated and actually what I was fishing for!

> > 2.) Those pesky needle bearings! They have gone throught the rigorous
> > cleanliness regime that the case has (being that they have not been
> > removed from said case). The spin nice and non-crackley and there seems to
> > be little to no sideplay to them. I know that I SHOULD replace them but
> > was wondering if I can cheapass it yet again and skip the replacement and
> > just lightly grease the beejeezus out of them and reuse.
>
> I think that one time I've got really anal and replaced the needle bearings. Generally they're fine,
> so unless you can see pitting on the needles I'd leave them.

Nope! No discernable pittage be happenin' and even though I should be
incredibley anal about this too, I'm starting to feel the time pressure of
June and so IF I can slide on this I probably will and give them a light
coating for grease during re-assembly.

> > 3.) This one IS sorta Ron specific. It seems that he rebuilt a 9A for
> > Patrick and used chromoly synchros in the rebuild. Anyone no where these
> > bad boys may be acquired?
>
> I've seen brass rings and coated brass rings (generally used on 2nd gear since it gets worked the
> hardest). Wouldn't a steel ring on a steel gear wear the gear surface which you wouldn't want? Yeah,
> I'd like to know more about this.

Inquiring minds want to know!

> > 4.) Pressing out the selector shaft I was able to crack one side of the
> > top of the shift finger where the clevis pin goes through. The crack is
> > tiny but does admit light through it. New shift finger time or no?
>
> I'm not really positive what you're talking about here, but if it's the part I think it is it should
> be replaced.

This is the shift finger that slides between the "C" shaped one on the
selector shaft and independently manipulates the 3rd/4th gear shift fork
shaped roughly thus (Yea Gods it's been sooooo long since I've tried my
ASCII drawing skills this might obsfucate things even more):


         _I_
      /X _I_ X\
   __/X/  I   \X\___xXx\
  lXXX(   I    )XXXXXXXx1
   --\X\  I   /X/-- xXx/
      \XX-X-XX/
        -----
This is a side view w/ the I's representing where the clevis pin goes
through the selector shaft..

> > 5.) Anybody have ANY idea what a turning torque of 0.5 to 1.4Nm (50 to
> > 150Ncm or 4.5 13 in lb.) or .3 Nm (30Ncm or 2.7 in. lb.) feels like??????
>
> Roughly, you should be able to grab the shaft with your hand and rotate it. It shouldn't turn
> easily, but also it shouldn't test your grip ;^)

This is EXACTLY what I was asking sir!! Thank you!!

Less cornfused (DeKalbacized),

Tim