Rear wheel bearing help 16V (kinda long, sorry)

[rhock99 at epix.net (Ryan H)]

yup, I've got the inner seals, got 'em from our buddies the Pottermans.  So Allyn, you stop tightening when you notice a difference in how the wheel spins, right?  No backing off from there?
Yeah, I think my biggest confusion was, how the heck does everything stay together... and well, basically if you don't get the axle nut right, I guess it doesn't!
I prefer to keep my rear wheels on while driving around, so I'm gonna try and get it straight... I'm attacking it as I write, covered in grease from the old setup.  :)
Thanks again Allyn!

> 
> From: "Allyn" <amalventano@sc.rr.com>
> Date: 2004/04/07 Wed PM 08:08:52 EDT
> To: "Ryan H" <rhock99@epix.net>,  <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Subject: Re: Rear wheel bearing help 16V (kinda long, sorry)
> 
> > Kinda like this: >>  ||  <
> 
> ok, both sets of outer races go into the rear disc. both sets of inner races 
> (along with the bearings) go in after the outer races are in place (so your 
> drawing appears correct). the inner-inner race presses towards the rotor 
> center, force applied by the back face of the stub axle. the outer-inner 
> race presses also towards the center (but in the opposite direction), force 
> applied by the stub axle nut and washer. so basically, both bearings are 
> held together by the torque on the axle nut. it is important to follow the 
> bentley on this one, as you have to first torque the nut (to a decent 
> torque, like hand tight with a 3/8 ratchet, NO GRONKING). this torque is to 
> ensure the bearing races are actually seated all the way (using the entire 
> assembly sorta like a press). the second part is to back the nut off and 
> tighten to some tiny torque value. i normally do this step by feel. i 
> temporarily put the wheel back on and spin it. as it spins i tighten the nut 
> until there is a slightly noticable effect on the wheel speed (it slows down 
> a tad faster). this minimizes overloading the bearings while ensuring you 
> have proper bearing contact.
> 
> > ...mystical bearing physics? ;)
> 
> well, i have heard stories about vw's losing their rear wheels when the 
> owner neglects the rear bearings for a long time. basically once the outer 
> bearing goes, there is NOTHING left keeping the rear wheel on the stub axle. 
> this is nearly impossible on disc cars, but very possible on drum cars, as 
> there is no caliper carrier to prevent the rotor from coming forward (and 
> ultimately off).
> 
> > Also, I bought some synthetic grease from Mobil One
> 
> yup, synthetic does just fine back there. just be sure its for wheel bearing 
> application. anything else will have a hard time handling the temp 
> (remember, your rear discs are directly connected to the rear bearings).
> 
> > Thanks, and if you could reply to my email I'd appreciate it - I'm 
> > archived, but I wanna get the bearings done tonight.  Thanks all who've 
> > helped!!!
> 
> 'reply all' ought to do ya.
> 
> p.s. dont forget to use the inner grease seals. they are the ones that go on 
> after you slip on the inner-inner race. they are handy, as they hold that 
> bearing together while you put the rotor back on over the stub axle. if you 
> dont have new seals, consider having them on hand before doing the job. 
> also, new cotter pins are a good idea.
> 
> hth
> Al
> 
> Allyn Malventano, ETC(SS), USN
> 87 Rieger Scirocco GTO 2.0 16v (daily driver, 200k, rocco #6)
> 86 Kamei Twin 16V Turbo Scirocco GTX (30% complete, rocco #7)
> 86.5 Occo 16v Trailer (rocco #8)
> 90 Passat GL 16V (the wifes new daily, 200k)
> 
>