WAY OT: Need advice/resource on pouring concretefordrivewayaddition

[richdeede at scirocco20v.com (Rich Deede)]

Geez marc....I never knew. Can you help me give Josh a "cement bath"....thats a whole lotta concrete!


-Rich
1988 Scirocco 1.8t



---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Marc Getty" <marc@getty.net>
Date:  Mon, 20 Oct 2003 17:15:27 -0400

>
>Excavate to a rough 8" below the current driveway surface. Use a few
>select measurements and string to ensure that it's at least 8" deep
>all the way around. If it's deeper then this that's okay, just not any
>shallower. Note that 25' = 300". 300" x 300" x 8" = 720,000 sq. in.
>One cubic yard is 46,656 sq. in., so this will yield 15.4 cubic yards
>removed.
>
>Fill in 4" of this excavation with stone. Again, use string to ensure
>that it's 4" below the existing surface. This will take 7.7 yards of
>stone to complete, order more just in case.
>
>Once this is done, acquire a few pieces of rebar and enough steel
>reinforcing mesh to cover the entire the entire surface. Two rolls of
>mesh should be enough. The green coated stuff will last a lot longer
>then the rusty steel will. If you can, drill into the edges of the
>existing driveway by 6" and slide a 12" piece of rebar into it,
>leaving the other half exposed, this will make a smooth transition.
>
>Make up a bulkhead out of a 2x6 on the open end and reinforce it into
>the ground with some wooden stakes. Keep in mind that you are holding
>back 24,000 pounds of concrete with this, don't go half-assed!
>
>You will need rakes and wheelbarrows, unless you get a front loading
>concrete truck that can pull right up to the pour. But keep in mind
>that a concrete truck with 8 yards in it will weigh in at about 65,000
>to 70,000 pounds, most driveways can't take that kind of weight parked
>for a few minutes. 
>
>After this, get a ready-mix concrete truck to bring you 8 yards of
>concrete with a 4" slump. Please, if you ever get anything done by a
>professional, get a finisher to help you with this. I've never ever
>seen someone who has not had experience pouring concrete get this
>right on the first time! It's cheaper to hire a finisher for the day
>then to jackhammer it out and pour again! 
>
>Long trowels and perhaps a gas troweling machine is helpful. Once it's
>finished, cover it in poly and then cover the poly in water. Keep it
>covered in poly & water for as long as you can. 4 days would be great.
>This will make it cure very slowly, and get very hard.
>
>Concrete hardens as fast as ice cream melts. Don't let it sit around!
>
>-Marc
>
>'81 "Gorgeous" Cedar Green Metallic Mk1 Scirocco - No Pictures to date
>'87 Tornado Red 16v Bogged Scirocco http://getty.net/scirocco/ RIP
>'02 Mercedes-Benz C230 Kompressor Sports Coupe -
>http://getty.net/c230k/ 
>    in Heliodongr?n (Citron Green) w/ European Delivery at 43,900 mi
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
>[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of Jeff Toomasson
>Sent: Monday, October 20, 2003 3:18 PM
>To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: WAY OT: Need advice/resource on pouring concrete for
>drivewayaddition
>
>
>My driveway has a 25sq.ft. notch that was never poured because there
>used to be a tree there. Now it's just an eye-sore and a waste of
>space. It's actually where my mk1 currently sits.
>
>I know a few of you out there have some General Contractor-type
>knowledge. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd really
>appreciate it. The following are the things I'd like get a better
>grasp of.
>
>- What particular material I should use (SF Bay Area climate ranges
>from 50-95'F - we rarely, if ever, get below 40'F)
>- how deep to dig the area in question
>- Use of rebar and whether to drill into existing adjoining sections
>for additional reinforcement
>
>Thanks again!
>
>Jeff
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