Speaking of our cars being possesed

[Ron at Bunch.org (Ron@Bunch.org)]

Re: Black engine paint.  For 30 years, I've used Rustoleum Barbecue Black 
paint on Porsche and VW engine parts, including exhaust. (Wonderful on air 
cooled engine shrouds.) It's high temp, relatively cheap, and very easy to 
find and match when you run out of it.
You're right to degrease before the wire wheel, so you don't imbed oils in 
the metal. After the wire wheel or sandblasting, I like to put the part in 
final position for painting then rinse it with brake cleaner spray to 
remove dust and oil remnants, let dry, and never touch it with bare 
hands/palm sweat/body oils until the paint is dry enough for assembly or 
baking.
If you have to paint a section that's rusted,  apply phosphoric acid after 
the final abrasive, then rinse with the brake cleaner (a cheap / generic 
brake cleaner).
NO PRIMER
When you spray, make the finish coat as thin as possible to cover. Less is 
better. Best method is two very thin coats done at 90 degrees to each other.
Follow the curing instructions on the can, or dry 24 hours before assembly 
or baking.
Baking the parts before installation helps, if you have an oven to do it 
in. Once exposed to heat, it is a tough finish that's also resistant to oil 
and scratching. I've never had it flake. Wouldn't consider using anything 
else. (No, I don't own their stock.)
It also works for what is was intended: barbecues. Rustoleum barbecue used 
to be available in all sorts of colors, but I only see black on the shelves 
now.


At 04:13 PM 11/16/03 -0500, you wrote:
>I noticed Cathy making mention of exorcising the deamons from our cars in an
>earlier post.  This is definitly the truth.  I just make a trip from north
>Ga to Gulf Shores Al last weekend where on the way back I smacked a nasty
>pot hole that managed to jar my axel nut loose on the drivers front.  I
>noticed the change in alingment but figured that thats all it was.  Upon
>inspections when I got home, I found some serious negative camber and a
>loose axel nut.  Jacked the car up, tightened the axel nut back, camber
>issue exorcised.  Car drove fine untill Friday when my car hit 266,666.
>within a few miles of reaching that the bearing started making it's deth
>call.  Didn't have time to deal with it yesterday so today began the great
>ceramony.
>
>I didn't have access to a press to do the bearings so I just swipped the hub
>of my wifes totaled cabby.  Replaced the control arm and ball joint since
>they also needed it.  What a difference it makes.  So for now the deamons
>are gone, though I hope I haven't spoken too soon.  Just thought I'd add to
>Cathy's comment and let everyone know how I've been spending my day.
>
>On a side note, I'm swapping the engine from my wifes old cabby to the new
>one and figured I'd go ahead and replace most of the gaskets and seals along
>with the lifters.  I'm also wanting to paint the block and head so what kind
>of paint should I be looking for.  I know it needs to be high temp, but any
>particular brand that has a nice gloss black that will do the job and not
>flake off.  I am going to clean the block with a wire wheel first to remove
>all the crud after a degreaser bath.  An I also know not to wire wheel the
>surface areas of any water flanges or other orafaces.
>
>Thanks,
>William Snyder
>
>88' Scirocco 16v
>89' Cabriolet 8v (R.I.P.)
>71' Karmann Ghia
>
>
>
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